Not for sale turbo upgrade.

[Siestarider]

Maybe I am reading your machine work wrongly, but looks like you are port matching exhaust manifold on top of adapter and turbine inlet on bottom. Which according to gas theory should result in a big pressure drop. Which in theory should result in big lag. I am assuming my theoretical understanding is baloney and you are going to light up the world with this setup. Fascinating as usual.

If it works, you are the second coming of Smokey Yunick for sure.

 

[Sourskittle]

Maybe I am reading your machine work wrongly, but looks like you are port matching exhaust manifold on top of adapter and turbine inlet on bottom. Which according to gas theory should result in a big pressure drop. Which in theory should result in big lag.

No Kevin, your very correct. The adaptor is a compromise of port size on both ends. The manifold opening COULD be opened up even more. The turbine side of the adaptor COULD be opened up even more, its actually 70mm, but its not. So I kept the manifold outlet down sized a bit and the turbine giant opening down a bit to TRY and make that huge difference better. Its def not "idea". I'm converting a 200whp 1 3/8" hole to a 400hp 70mm hole, just no perfect way to do it.

I am looking into maybe filling a bit of the actual turbine inlet, but these turbines are NOT like our stock turbines, and welding them is much more risky, and I don't like the idea of having anything welded to cast in that area. It is really annoying though, lol.

This is the adaptor vs a non-ported mocked up manifold. My manifold will match it perfectly

Stock oil feed ( mine is on order and this one is different thread)

Stock oil return, gonna need a little love

Kinda the angle I'm looking at to deal with the DP, pretty good.

 

[Sourskittle]

Comp housing love

Stock 230hp comp wheel looking small in the machined out housing

N' stuff

Yep... Room between the block

The only thing you can see from the engine bay if you disassemble the cowling

 

[Sourskittle]

When you leave work for a 5 day weekend and think, "Well, the lines won't be here until next week, so no use carrying the turbo/manifold from my tool box to my car", THIS HAPPENS.

I got two exhaust manifold gaskets like 5 days LATE 2 weeks ago, and then these two parts show up 5 days early from two different places

 

[frankiefiesta]

sexy

 

[Sourskittle]

My burnt mock up engine doesn't have all the lines to connect, but I did test fit the barb fittings and they are perfect.

Hard to see, but the coolant lines actually have a reasonable amount of room to come from the back. Glad I decided to use them.

Oil return line is CLOSE to perfect. But I'm going to cut it, twist it 10 degrees and reweld it. Also going to port its inlet.

The inlet pipe obviously needs cut down and I may or may not re-weld the bead rolled end on, but I need the pipe/bend as close to the compressor as I can get it.

The stainless down pipe is too much bend. Its already 45 degrees, and the bend I have is 90. So I'm going to cut the 90 degree bend at 60 degrees so that it has a little "loop" built into it like the stock DP. I'll prob have my muffler shop do the rest, Idk well see. My stock style DP has a V-band outlet I'll be reusing on the new one, and I have a stainless flex section and O2 bungs already as well.

I actually have a banjo that will be a perfect fit to the cylinder head oil feed. I would just have to run a tap into it to add threads, but of course, that means no going back to a stock turbo EVER, and I'm not ok with that...

 

[masonsturbos]

In for updates

 

[Sourskittle]

I got swamped with customer projects and it got put on the back burner for now.
It's official though, it will use a 20T not a 23T


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[Sourskittle]

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[Sourskittle]

Stock fist vs Volvo ( look through the holes at the red ).

Machines adaptor plate, maybe you can see the hole moves up in size a good bit.

So.... This pretty much ends my grand illusion of keeping the stock style Volvo diverter valve
Option #1 weld a thin plate over it to seal it off.
Option #2 use the slightly smaller wrx compressor housing instead. Both require a new BOV

Looks like I may get away with murder here and just have the fist flange taken off and the Volvo flange welded on :0 pretty nice...

https://vimeo.com/178983713
Stuff and looking at stuff (bottom)

https://vimeo.com/178983746
Top side of stuff


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[BronxBomber]

Looking forward to u getting this thing done, then going to see u to go for a ride????

 

[re-rx7]

Lots of progress

 

[Sourskittle]

This loose stack is... My 2 1/4" to 3" adaptor, a 1" length of 3", 3" v-band, 3" vband, and another 1" length of 3". All this will get tig welded and handed to the muffler guys. The muffler guys ( like most places ) mig weld. But I don't let them mig weld to v-band style flanges directly. This will connect my 3" customer exhaust with the stock oem muffler right at the back of the car.

https://vimeo.com/179134987
This video shows a few issues. #1 it shows the un-modded return line almost fits, but not quiet. I'll be cutting it and twisting it 30 degrees for 2 reasons. First reason is the oil line needs to rotate that much to help it align with the oil pan return fitting. The other reason is that the compressor housing actually is NOT hitting the axle carrier stay since I removed the stock BOV. It's actually hitting the oil return line hose. Rotating it 30 degrees also move its out of the comp housing's way.

Water feed line barb into stock driver side water line.

Water line barb into the passenger side water line.

Feed line, coolant lines, and the Mack daddy 13T Volvo stock comp wheel, lol. Don't laugh, it's miles bigger than the stock 9T sized comp wheel.

Left home at 6:30am and got home at 9:15pm. Long day...

I cut the inlet down to fit a 3" inlet down to the Volvo turbo, but... The radius on the bend is too wide, I may have to build a custom bend for it. Also have to take the reducer that is 2.5" OUT of the 2JR intake so that is stays 3"from the filter to the turbo :0

I MAYBE able to get away with using a piece of the stock charge pipe as a compressor outlet hose, but it's a long shot.

So many different angles to all this, I have to keep notes.



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[BronxBomber]

Kudos Bryan. You're like Mad Max with your car lol. Rest up man. I'll be tuning in for the next installment whenever that is.

 

[Sourskittle]

Day off for me


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[Sourskittle]

New

Old


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[grnmachine02]

As a Volvo guy, I'm glad to see that someone found a use for those stock turbos. They were all but worthless to me.

 

[Sourskittle]

Volvos sort of had it bad... Tiny compressor wheels if they didn't upgrade them, and small turbine housings and stock turbine wheels to try and let a 2.5L 5-cylinder breath out of.... But a 1.6L with a 350whp comp wheel.... Perfect


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[Sourskittle]

Hose is now a little too short... Had to order one with a 45 degree angle built in to make it fit perfect.

Order a 90 degree 2" coupler to make this bend and complete the compressor to ATP cold pipe leap.

I was thinking about being a cheap lazy guy, but... I decided to cut the ford flange off, weld a V-band to the Miltek DP and then the other side to the Volvo flange. That will let me keep the flex joint, O2 bungs and the V-band already modded to the Downpipe 6 months ago.


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[grnmachine02]

Volvos sort of had it bad... Tiny compressor wheels if they didn't upgrade them, and small turbine housings and stock turbine wheels to try and let a 2.5L 5-cylinder breath out of.... But a 1.6L with a 350whp comp wheel.... Perfect


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They worked better on the 8v RWD cars, than they did the 5 cyl. Most of the RWD cars came with a super tiny 13c. A 15g or 16/18t (depending on which car you pilfered the turbo from) was a massive upgrade to that. I wonder how our cars would respond to one of the KKK turbos on the s60/v70r. Hmm...