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CG's daily fun ride
- Thread starter CanadianGuy
- Start date
OP
Thread Starter
#183
Thread Starter
#183
August 14th Great brake lights
I had installed some cheap LED brake lights ($10). They work perfectly until one died and one lost a lens in the housing. Was able to get all the pieces out and switched to the Putco Plasma 3157 LED. Bought from Xenon depot for less than $40 with their sales and coupons I had. I do not have a good camera to take the pictures but I can tell you the light output is very high compared to the stock bulbs. Should make the people on my butt realise I press the brakes a weebit faster.
http://www.xenondepot.com/3157-Putco-Plasma-LED-bulbs-p/243157w-360.htm
I had installed some cheap LED brake lights ($10). They work perfectly until one died and one lost a lens in the housing. Was able to get all the pieces out and switched to the Putco Plasma 3157 LED. Bought from Xenon depot for less than $40 with their sales and coupons I had. I do not have a good camera to take the pictures but I can tell you the light output is very high compared to the stock bulbs. Should make the people on my butt realise I press the brakes a weebit faster.
http://www.xenondepot.com/3157-Putco-Plasma-LED-bulbs-p/243157w-360.htm
OP
Thread Starter
#184
Thread Starter
#184
August 30th Quick cosmetic update
Replaced the mirror caps with black versions. Actually bought black ones could of plastidip or vinyl wrapped (would have been cheaper) but for some reason I was too lazy to take the caps off and wait for either to be done. This way I can swap back to MO version quickly. I really like the look of it. May also now try black lug nuts unless I can find reads to match the calipers.
Replaced the mirror caps with black versions. Actually bought black ones could of plastidip or vinyl wrapped (would have been cheaper) but for some reason I was too lazy to take the caps off and wait for either to be done. This way I can swap back to MO version quickly. I really like the look of it. May also now try black lug nuts unless I can find reads to match the calipers.
OP
Thread Starter
#186
Thread Starter
#186
September 9th 3rd brake light flasher
I installed the GS-100A 3rd brake light flasher unit today, best $3 Canadian I spent on the car thus far. Link to the install photos here.
I like it but it does not have the go straight to solid if the brakes are re-press within 10 seconds like other modules do but I dont drive in very heavy traffic that I would need that. With the bullet connectors I can revert quickly back to stock or replace the module.
[video=youtube;qP9T4YctZJw]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qP9T4YctZJw&feature=youtu.be[/video]
I installed the GS-100A 3rd brake light flasher unit today, best $3 Canadian I spent on the car thus far. Link to the install photos here.
I like it but it does not have the go straight to solid if the brakes are re-press within 10 seconds like other modules do but I dont drive in very heavy traffic that I would need that. With the bullet connectors I can revert quickly back to stock or replace the module.
[video=youtube;qP9T4YctZJw]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qP9T4YctZJw&feature=youtu.be[/video]
OP
Thread Starter
#187
Thread Starter
#187
September 17 tranny fluids changed
Decide to change the tranny fluid along with the oil today. Very easy to do. Take the air box out makes your life much easier. I used Royal Purple Synchromax, because I never had issues with it in the past. To fill I simply cut the tip off the cap, held my finger on the tip to plug it and lowered the bottle to the hole, squeezed the bottle to fill. For the second bottle I took out 100ml ( as the bottles are only 948ml) and proceeded like the first. Actually swapped the caps instead of cutting it.
Pro tip make sure you are loosing the fill plug and not tightening it. After two minutes I was about to get the breaker bar. Then it dawned on me. Came out supper easy with just an extra long 8mm Allen key. No wrench required.
Second pro tip. Watch out the oil splashes against the frame when the plug is removed, my wisdom has taught me to place a peice of card board and angle it into the pan. Much less of a mess that way.
As for the drive I feel it is much smoother. I have only done 100km but after the first 10 the tranny was butter smooth. Especially in downshifts. Personally I recommend any tranny fluid that will due he job and you should drain it at 20000 to 30000 miles to get rid of the metal as the gears have meshed together better.
Decide to change the tranny fluid along with the oil today. Very easy to do. Take the air box out makes your life much easier. I used Royal Purple Synchromax, because I never had issues with it in the past. To fill I simply cut the tip off the cap, held my finger on the tip to plug it and lowered the bottle to the hole, squeezed the bottle to fill. For the second bottle I took out 100ml ( as the bottles are only 948ml) and proceeded like the first. Actually swapped the caps instead of cutting it.
Pro tip make sure you are loosing the fill plug and not tightening it. After two minutes I was about to get the breaker bar. Then it dawned on me. Came out supper easy with just an extra long 8mm Allen key. No wrench required.
Second pro tip. Watch out the oil splashes against the frame when the plug is removed, my wisdom has taught me to place a peice of card board and angle it into the pan. Much less of a mess that way.
As for the drive I feel it is much smoother. I have only done 100km but after the first 10 the tranny was butter smooth. Especially in downshifts. Personally I recommend any tranny fluid that will due he job and you should drain it at 20000 to 30000 miles to get rid of the metal as the gears have meshed together better.
Actually, the RP Synchromax is a substantially lighter (lower viscosity) fluid than the excellent Gear 300.
The Synchromax is a manual transmission fluid, whereas the Gear 300 is an actual gear oil which yes, can be used in certain gearboxes/transaxles.
The Synchromax has a 7.7 cSt @ 100*C viscosity, whereas the Gear 300 has a 15.2 cSt @ 100*C viscosity.
The Gear 300's world class leading viscosity index (at 222) does allow it to have a great range of ambient temperature use (vs. the Synchromax's 175 V.I.), but I would still expect it to make shifting much 'balkier' than the RP fluid in the almost arctic ambients of Canada, and our northern tier states, in the winter, especially until it warms up, due to it's about double viscosity @100* C.![[wink]](/images/smilies/wink.gif "Wink [wink]")
The Synchromax is a manual transmission fluid, whereas the Gear 300 is an actual gear oil which yes, can be used in certain gearboxes/transaxles.
The Synchromax has a 7.7 cSt @ 100*C viscosity, whereas the Gear 300 has a 15.2 cSt @ 100*C viscosity.
The Gear 300's world class leading viscosity index (at 222) does allow it to have a great range of ambient temperature use (vs. the Synchromax's 175 V.I.), but I would still expect it to make shifting much 'balkier' than the RP fluid in the almost arctic ambients of Canada, and our northern tier states, in the winter, especially until it warms up, due to it's about double viscosity @100* C.
OP
Thread Starter
#198
Thread Starter
#198
Sand I said "basically similar" equivalent to motul would be RP max gear synthetic gear oil. But ya the motul will be mud in winter which some older sloppy transmission will benefit from not so much the FiST. But I also say you can try it it will not damage anything just be stiffer. But I have use RP, correct product application, and never had issues but I am not opposed to anything else busy easy for me to get.
Yes, the Synchromax may very well turn out to be the 'bees knees', go to fluid for these B6 transaxles.
I'm just a little wary of it since it made my T56 grind in every gear when I tried it in that gearbox, although, YES, I KNOW that the blocker ring material in those transmissions' gear sets are very different than what's in ours, and some who have used it in their T56es have had no problems at all with it.
I'm just a little wary of it since it made my T56 grind in every gear when I tried it in that gearbox, although, YES, I KNOW that the blocker ring material in those transmissions' gear sets are very different than what's in ours, and some who have used it in their T56es have had no problems at all with it.
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