koozy's ST

[koozy]

Fun fact. Unlike gear or motor oil, it's ok to overfill coolant beyond the MAX indicator. I recently did this after installing the 180 thermostat, flushing the cooling system and bleeding air out. I wanted to make sure I was not going to run low on coolant while out on the road in addition to carrying gallon in the rear hatch.

First the built in filter and now I discover there's a safety bleed that built into the reservoir in the event the coolant cap has failed or overfilling beyond what the system can handle. I'm really finding appreciation for the OE coolant reservoir.

This is my current coolant level, it hasn’t gone down and it's perfectly fine. IMO, it's better to have a little more coolant than not enough. Kudos if you can see the safety built in.

ps. Bleeding the system is ridiculously easy on the FiST and even easier with the Mishi radiator bleeder valve.

 

[koozy]

Updating the jiffy pop turbo manifold heat shield to something a bit more elegant.

Old jiffy pop shield.

Covering up the art with the new shield.

with the crossover pipe.

 

[M-Sport fan]

During the roadside, spot check stops, do they break out the under car mirrors, or do they just lift the hood and 'fine tooth comb' it?

That new shield setup looks 'factory' clean.

 

[koozy]

Depends on which enforcement and at their discretion.


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[Perfblue15]

I really like the heat shield! I need to make something similar for my car. I keep finding barbeque'd harnesses and melted wires on the back side of my engine. Wanna sell me the old one lol [emoji23]

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[koozy]

Interesting that you have cooked some parts, IIRC you wrapped your manifold. My old shield is no longer worthy lol.


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[Perfblue15]

Interesting that you have cooked some parts, IIRC you wrapped your manifold. My old shield is no longer worthy lol.


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Yes sir it is wrapped which in theory should have protected the wiring back there. I'm gonna blame it on 20 minute open track sessions lol. I also think that wrap doesn't help as much as some of us think it does. I'm going to be cutting the wrap off and going for something similar to your set up soon. I may even coat the header while I'm at it.

I'm tired of replacing pigtails and chasing electrical gremlins.[emoji12]

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[koozy]

Not sure what material you're going to use, but some are not cheap. My only advice is to measure twice and cut once.
I made sure I was going to be near the mark by making one out of cardboard first.

 

[V_2]

Looks great! What product did you go with? I have been looking at headershield for doing something like this.

Edit: header armor, not shield.

 

[koozy]

Embossed layered aluminum. I have it so that it hovers over the manifold providing a gap of air and not really touching the manifold at all.

 

[KnockOff]

That looks really nice bro. Like brofessional.

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[koozy]

Installed the Powerflex rear spring isolators after having them for several months. This is an easy job, I just didn't have the time. I had my priorities and this was towards the least important of things to do in my life, LOL. This eurathane part replaces the OE rubber piece.

Here's the OE in place.

OE next to Powerflex.

Mock up of it in place on the spring compared to the OE part.

OE

Powerflex

To properly install, simply snap it into place before putting the springs on, otherwise it may not seat correctly.

New isolator in place.

Everything nice and snug with white indicator marks to keep track of movement, if any over time.

 

[M-Sport fan]

Is there enough slack in the lowering springs, at full suspension droop to be able to do this by hand, or did you have to use a spring compressor tool, or ratcheting strap tool?

 

[koozy]

There's plenty of slack. Just jack up the rear end at the rear beam, put jack stands and lower car on to stands, support rear beam with jack, remove lower shock bolts, lower jack, remove springs, remove isolator, then repeat steps backwards for installation of new pads.

 

[KyleS]

Did you notice an increase in ride height with the new isolators?

 

[M-Sport fan]

There's plenty of slack. Just jack up the rear end at the rear beam, put jack stands and lower car on to stands, support rear beam with jack, remove lower shock bolts, lower jack, remove springs, remove isolator, then repeat steps backwards for installation of new pads.

OK, I did not realize that you disconnected the shocks at the lower mounts, which YES, is A LOT easier than using a spring compressor to do the job.

 

[koozy]

I just installed them, haven’t driven it yet. Don’t have time LOL. I’m using my other car while the FiST is parked. My eyes say yes it’s a tad higher, but I really didn’t care to measure. I wanted them for the improved stability and consistency. It may settle some after I put some miles on it.


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[koozy]

Finalized shaping and fitting the heat shield, fits like a glove.

 

[Batnismo]

I’m local in LA near LAX


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[koozy]

I always found the lower rubber bumpers for the license plate mount odd. The plate would never sit flush and was not mounted solid with just 2 screws. So I ditched the rubber bumpers and updated to allow for 4 mounting points. The plate is also now flush and mounted solid on to the hatch.

OE setup. I removed one of the bumpers for prepping.

New and improved setup

New hardware with OE outside the package.