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koozy's ST
- Thread starter koozy
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![[???:)]](/images/smilies/confused.gif "Really Confused [???:)]")
![[dunno]](/images/smilies/icon_smile_dunno.gif "Dunno [dunno]"){kind=icon}
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OP
Thread Starter
#262
Thread Starter
#262
After getting a better look at things, I've reconsidered installing a duct. There's a gap right next to the intercooler that provides fresh air coming through the lower grill area and the duct hose fits perfectly snug there. The reality is I don't feel it's going to make much difference by adding a duct for the hose with the DHM Race Intercooler.
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OP
Thread Starter
#265
Thread Starter
#265
I needed an intake system that is stock in appearance for various reasons being a CA resident. So to recap, the intake starts off with an ST200 intake box/hose duct with a Green Highflow Filter, Mishimoto Silicone Intake hose, and a RAMAIR 2.75" aluminum crossover pipe leading straight into the 3" GTX2860R inlet.
There may be slight differences with a USDM Fiesta ST and a EU Fiesta ST which the pipe was originally designed for, so minor modifications had to be made to the RAMAIR crossover pipe itself in order for it to fit properly. I'm really particular about fit and finish and pretty happy with this set up. The RAMAIR pipe was the best OE looking pipe that met my needs. Another nice pipe is the one from ITG.
There may be slight differences with a USDM Fiesta ST and a EU Fiesta ST which the pipe was originally designed for, so minor modifications had to be made to the RAMAIR crossover pipe itself in order for it to fit properly. I'm really particular about fit and finish and pretty happy with this set up. The RAMAIR pipe was the best OE looking pipe that met my needs. Another nice pipe is the one from ITG.
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OP
Thread Starter
#267
Thread Starter
#267
I got it from RAMAIR for $155 shipped from the U.K. before it was available stateside. It's a well made one piece mandrel bent pipe with quality powder coating that took well to me bumping it around, nice welds that were de-burred and cleaned up where needed. The only problem was it didn't fit without some help. Cutting, grinding, filing, and bending were required at least in my case. Not sure if anyone else who may have this pipe stateside has had any issues.
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OP
Thread Starter
#273
Thread Starter
#273
I've had these for awhile and guilty of overlooking them in my list of mods, but these items have been my best bang for the buck mods and totally worth metioning.
$3 expansion plug aka sound symposer delete.
$20 rubbermaid hanging cargo organizer and $10 cargo net.
$24 Dickies Back Seat Protector. My little friends, priceless![[biggrin]](/images/smilies/biggrin.gif "Big Grin [biggrin]")
$3 expansion plug aka sound symposer delete.
$20 rubbermaid hanging cargo organizer and $10 cargo net.
$24 Dickies Back Seat Protector. My little friends, priceless
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OP
Thread Starter
#276
Thread Starter
#276
First of all shout out to [MENTION=62]Sekred[/MENTION], [MENTION=27]arlisscm[/MENTION], and [MENTION=5851]Raindog[/MENTION] for fielding my questions and helping out while I was brainstorming on a resolution. These guys were more helpful than some of the vendors and fabricators on this forum that I reached out to.
I noticed what appeared to be oil covering areas under the motor and droplets here and there around a particular area around the TIAL BOV. The BOV is directly under the turbo oil drain and in front of the oil pan drain plug. For those not familiar with the DHM kit, it looks like this.
So, I crawl under the car to see where the oil was coming from and if anything that could leak oil was loose. Nothing, I found nothing which wasn't exactly comforting. What exacerbated the issue was that there was what appeared to be oil spray or mist in areas that oil shouldn't be at. Seeing this, I thought that the oil was perhaps coming out of the BOV and being blown all around the area. I pulled off the pipe with the BOV to inspect it and it was internally bone dry. At this point all I could do was wipe the oil off and put the pipe back on, lower the car back down and check in a few days to see if the oil leak would reappear. After a day of driving signs of an oil leak had reappeared. I get back under the car and there was oil dripping from the BOV and oil mist in the surrounding area. There were no obvious signs of leaks at the turbo, oil drain plug or BOV, but oil was coming from somewhere.
I had a hunch that it could be the oil drain tube itself, but there were no obvious signs of a leak from it. I decided to test my theory out by wrapping the oil drain tube with some scrap fiberglass heat wrap to see if it would be soaked with oil. After another day of driving I started to notice signs of a leak again. I get under the car and unwrap the drain tube and see that the fiberglass heat wrap was soaked full of oil. BINGO! we're getting somewhere now. I pull the oil drain tube out and have a look. At first it wasn't obvious, but there it was... a crack in the bellows of the tube. There was no way to see the crack from the bottom of the car, the only way to see it was to have the oil drain tube off and out in your hands.
Oil soaked fiberglass heat wrap.
The crack.
Here's what you get when you order an OE drain tube, a metal one unlike the one that originally came with the car. The metal one is what I needed, so it was perfect.
The fix.
Test fit.
Done, no more leaks.
I noticed what appeared to be oil covering areas under the motor and droplets here and there around a particular area around the TIAL BOV. The BOV is directly under the turbo oil drain and in front of the oil pan drain plug. For those not familiar with the DHM kit, it looks like this.
So, I crawl under the car to see where the oil was coming from and if anything that could leak oil was loose. Nothing, I found nothing which wasn't exactly comforting. What exacerbated the issue was that there was what appeared to be oil spray or mist in areas that oil shouldn't be at. Seeing this, I thought that the oil was perhaps coming out of the BOV and being blown all around the area. I pulled off the pipe with the BOV to inspect it and it was internally bone dry. At this point all I could do was wipe the oil off and put the pipe back on, lower the car back down and check in a few days to see if the oil leak would reappear. After a day of driving signs of an oil leak had reappeared. I get back under the car and there was oil dripping from the BOV and oil mist in the surrounding area. There were no obvious signs of leaks at the turbo, oil drain plug or BOV, but oil was coming from somewhere.
I had a hunch that it could be the oil drain tube itself, but there were no obvious signs of a leak from it. I decided to test my theory out by wrapping the oil drain tube with some scrap fiberglass heat wrap to see if it would be soaked with oil. After another day of driving I started to notice signs of a leak again. I get under the car and unwrap the drain tube and see that the fiberglass heat wrap was soaked full of oil. BINGO! we're getting somewhere now. I pull the oil drain tube out and have a look. At first it wasn't obvious, but there it was... a crack in the bellows of the tube. There was no way to see the crack from the bottom of the car, the only way to see it was to have the oil drain tube off and out in your hands.
Oil soaked fiberglass heat wrap.
The crack.
Here's what you get when you order an OE drain tube, a metal one unlike the one that originally came with the car. The metal one is what I needed, so it was perfect.
The fix.
Test fit.
Done, no more leaks.
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OP
Thread Starter
#278
Thread Starter
#278
thanks, but honestly it really sucked in the beginning especially with the responses I received from big names like Peron, who said "sure no problem, we can help you" and then being dissed. I also reached out to a local fabricator who's a member on this forum that sells wheel bolt pattern conversion kits to fab something which I was willing to pay for. Nada. That's why I give mad props to those 3 guys mentioned above, who actually helped. In the end sometimes no one is as passionate or cares as much as you do. I hope no one else will have this issue, but in the event I've documented it, so they can see there's a way and what I did to get it done. it took me 2 months to resolve this issue, unbelievable but it did because of entertaining different ideas, waiting on parts, ordering new parts, waiting on a qualified welder who can TIG thin metals, etc. i wish I could have just ordered it
thanks, but honestly it really sucked in the beginning especially with the responses I received from big names like Peron, who said "sure no problem, we can help you" and then being dissed. I also reached out to a local fabricator who's a member on this forum that sells wheel bolt pattern conversion kits to fab something which I was willing to pay for. Nada. That's why I give mad props to those 3 guys mentioned above, who actually helped. In the end sometimes no one is as passionate or cares as much as you do. I hope no one else will have this issue, but in the event I've documented it, so they can see there's a way and what I did to get it done. it took me 2 months to resolve this issue, unbelievable but it did. i wish I could have just ordered it
Nice work and I am glad you finally got it sorted out. Not to burst your bubble but I would still keep an eye on this. My background is diesel mechanics and these type of full metal turbo drain hoses are not common. They are usually a combination of metal tubing and high temp NB rubber and clamped joints to allow for some movement because of thermal expansion and contraction of the exhaust manifold as it going through constant heat cycles because of the turbo boosting. What worries me a little is the SS tubular exhaust manifold. These types of manifolds expand and then contract more than a cast log type manifold and it would not surprise me if this was the reason your drain tube cracked in the first place. Just saying 
