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koozy's ST
- Thread starter koozy
- Start date
![[deviltail]](/images/smilies/deviltail.gif "Devil Tail [deviltail]")
OP
Thread Starter
#102
Thread Starter
#102
the car is approaching 5k miles, so I'll be changing the oil for the first time and sending a sample of the factory fill to Blackstone for analysis. I'll also be cutting open the factory installed filter to have a look at how much the filter captured.
Running ethanol is awesome, no doubt about it. The gains are incredible and I'm not even optimally tuned... yet.
E30 last week, E40 this week![[cool]](/images/smilies/icon_smile_cool.gif "Cool [cool]")
Running ethanol is awesome, no doubt about it. The gains are incredible and I'm not even optimally tuned... yet.
E30 last week, E40 this week
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OP
Thread Starter
#104
Thread Starter
#104
Yes, it's not absolutely necessary. The ecu is very dynamic. I currently want to remain a sleeper, so no exhaust right now, though I can see a Cobb cat-back in the future. My ethanol maps are also based off the Stage 3 OTS map. It runs great, and from what I have been monitoring with the Accessport, there's room for improvement. I'm only peaking 22lbs currently and running a little on the rich side for safety as I continue to learn the Accesstuner software and study up on tuning with emphasis on the Ecoboost. I'm sure there's some HP/Torque left on the table and a Protune would dial in some more power/torque, but honestly at the moment I'm happy with it. I'm having traction problems as it is in 1st, 2nd out of the hole, and a little in 3rd sometimes depending on when and where i get on it. I had to create low boost map last week when it rained, because it would just spins tire in the wet.
So it's safe to say that the intercooler is the most important part of the stage 2 and the downpipe is the most important for the stage 3 maps? You could run stage 2 with a drop in or no intake while just having the intercooler and same could be said about stage 3 with the downpipe present and exhaust stock?
OP
Thread Starter
#108
Thread Starter
#108
Finally!
I also cut the factory installed filter open. Note that that the OE filter is shorter than the FL-910S, the part number on it is 1714387BM5G6714AA. The condition was pretty good, the filter media does not appear to be full of particles to the naked eye. There were some larger contaminants outside in the residual oil inside the can, but nothing that made it back into the motor as the filter was doing it's job preventing that.
I also cut the factory installed filter open. Note that that the OE filter is shorter than the FL-910S, the part number on it is 1714387BM5G6714AA. The condition was pretty good, the filter media does not appear to be full of particles to the naked eye. There were some larger contaminants outside in the residual oil inside the can, but nothing that made it back into the motor as the filter was doing it's job preventing that.
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OP
Thread Starter
#111
Thread Starter
#111
sure... http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HOK-41163HKR
They're sold as pairs, so get 2 if you want to change all 4 hangers.
They're sold as pairs, so get 2 if you want to change all 4 hangers.
Just now seeing this, so whats the take away message. Kinda hard to be conclusive off one report I suppose.
Seems to be a normal first change with 5,000 miles... I ran mine to about 8,500 on first change... If we were to be anti scientific and infer a trend based on your results it seems that the longer change intervals would still post a "good report!"
Whats your take?
Thanks for posting!
Seems to be a normal first change with 5,000 miles... I ran mine to about 8,500 on first change... If we were to be anti scientific and infer a trend based on your results it seems that the longer change intervals would still post a "good report!"
Whats your take?
Thanks for posting!
OP
Thread Starter
#113
Thread Starter
#113
I agree, in hind sight I could have taken it comfortably to 10,000 miles. I was coming up on 1yr, so I was eager to hit the 5,000 mark to change it and send a sample in. Ford states not to exceed 1yr. or 10k miles, which ever comes first.
My personal take away is what I've always felt and that is Ford employees engineers to ensure their product, in this instance the power plant is good to last through various conditions. I choose 5k, because it was the least amount of miles Ford recommended. It wouldn't surprise me if they had their own oil engineers who's sole job is to analyze oil samples across their entire product line up. They also came up with the service interval recommendations. Many find the need to rethink and re-invent the wheel with oil changes, especially the first one when Ford has already done the homework already.
I plan on sending another sample for my next change to see how things are looking for my own curiosity. I'll post when I have something to share.
My personal take away is what I've always felt and that is Ford employees engineers to ensure their product, in this instance the power plant is good to last through various conditions. I choose 5k, because it was the least amount of miles Ford recommended. It wouldn't surprise me if they had their own oil engineers who's sole job is to analyze oil samples across their entire product line up. They also came up with the service interval recommendations. Many find the need to rethink and re-invent the wheel with oil changes, especially the first one when Ford has already done the homework already.
I plan on sending another sample for my next change to see how things are looking for my own curiosity. I'll post when I have something to share.
OP
Thread Starter
#120
Thread Starter
#120
Added a few things since my last update.
no-pistons evap skid plate. love it because it cracks me up, LOL.
Cobb Cat-Back Exhaust. Love the exhaust. Great build and top quality, it's like a piece of jewelry and has added to the visceral experience.
the rear muffler is locked down from shifting left or right and the tips remains in the center of the exhaust cut out of the lower rear valance with these set screw collars in place.
Mishimoto Oil Cooler Kit. Has definitely had a positive impact on both oil and especially coolant temps. Car runs happier with cooler lubes and allows a more aggressive tune.
Oil lines behind the crash beam.
Oil lines routed behind the crash beam into the engine compartment and secured them to a hole on the crash beam.
Lines routed behind the AC line and wire tied to a hole on the radiator support.
Another angle of the hole on the radiator support looking straight up next to the right front wheel.
Oil cooler lines taking up some space where the upper diversion panel used to be.
Upper diversion panel trimmed to accommodate oil lines.
Everything buttoned up.
Update 10/31/15
I'm really happy with this oil cooler kit. The quality, fitment and performance has met my expectations. Most importantly the temperatures are noticeably cooler for both oil and coolant, even under normal driving conditions it's cooler than with the OE setup. At this rate and for my use I am almost certain I won't be needing to upgrade the radiator anytime soon now that the oil cooler has taken the oil cooling load away from the radiator.
Normal driving conditions with oil cooler on the street and highway temperature range.
OIL: 185 ~ 210 deg F.
COOLANT: 190 ~ 197 deg F.
I had a chance to revisit a canyon where I recorded peak coolant and oil temps prior to the oil cooler.
Peak temps prior to oil cooler:
OIL: 246 deg F.
COOLANT: 229 deg F.
Peak temps after oil cooler installation:
OIL: 225 deg F.
COOLANT: 205 deg F.
Temp reduction:
OIL: -21 deg F.
COOLANT: -24 deg F.
no-pistons evap skid plate. love it because it cracks me up, LOL.
Cobb Cat-Back Exhaust. Love the exhaust. Great build and top quality, it's like a piece of jewelry and has added to the visceral experience.
the rear muffler is locked down from shifting left or right and the tips remains in the center of the exhaust cut out of the lower rear valance with these set screw collars in place.
Mishimoto Oil Cooler Kit. Has definitely had a positive impact on both oil and especially coolant temps. Car runs happier with cooler lubes and allows a more aggressive tune.
Oil lines behind the crash beam.
Oil lines routed behind the crash beam into the engine compartment and secured them to a hole on the crash beam.
Lines routed behind the AC line and wire tied to a hole on the radiator support.
Another angle of the hole on the radiator support looking straight up next to the right front wheel.
Oil cooler lines taking up some space where the upper diversion panel used to be.
Upper diversion panel trimmed to accommodate oil lines.
Everything buttoned up.
Update 10/31/15
I'm really happy with this oil cooler kit. The quality, fitment and performance has met my expectations. Most importantly the temperatures are noticeably cooler for both oil and coolant, even under normal driving conditions it's cooler than with the OE setup. At this rate and for my use I am almost certain I won't be needing to upgrade the radiator anytime soon now that the oil cooler has taken the oil cooling load away from the radiator.
Normal driving conditions with oil cooler on the street and highway temperature range.
OIL: 185 ~ 210 deg F.
COOLANT: 190 ~ 197 deg F.
I had a chance to revisit a canyon where I recorded peak coolant and oil temps prior to the oil cooler.
Peak temps prior to oil cooler:
OIL: 246 deg F.
COOLANT: 229 deg F.
Peak temps after oil cooler installation:
OIL: 225 deg F.
COOLANT: 205 deg F.
Temp reduction:
OIL: -21 deg F.
COOLANT: -24 deg F.
