Your Dash Cam

[Spaceman_Spiff]

...I got an extra long USB cable, 20 feet I think. The wire is easily tucked in the roof liner, then down the A pillar, and eventually under the seat where it looks up right at the plug. 90% of the wire is out of sight.

How was the length on this? did you have to hide a bunch of it, or did it reach the usb port pretty well? I'm looking at running a cable from the armrest usb port to a windshield-mounted phone holder (above vent on drivers side next to the door) and not sure how long I need. I found a 9' cable on amazon for $6(ish), not sure if that'll be long enough...

Also, does anyone happen to know if there's an easy way to route out of the armrest, maybe out the bottom somehow? I know there is a hole in the front for this, but I'd rather hide it if at all possible.

Also-Also, just to keep this on topic, I did buy a dash cam. It's mounted behind the rear view mirror. Right now it's routed to the cig plug in the front console, but I'd like to put in a switch somewhere so i can leave it on or turn it off, but not have a plug hanging out all the time.

 

[Bluedrank]

How was the length on this? did you have to hide a bunch of it, or did it reach the usb port pretty well? I'm looking at running a cable from the armrest usb port to a windshield-mounted phone holder (above vent on drivers side next to the door) and not sure how long I need. I found a 9' cable on amazon for $6(ish), not sure if that'll be long enough...

Also, does anyone happen to know if there's an easy way to route out of the armrest, maybe out the bottom somehow? I know there is a hole in the front for this, but I'd rather hide it if at all possible.

Also-Also, just to keep this on topic, I did buy a dash cam. It's mounted behind the rear view mirror. Right now it's routed to the cig plug in the front console, but I'd like to put in a switch somewhere so i can leave it on or turn it off, but not have a plug hanging out all the time.

9 Feet will not be enough, 20 feet is a bit too much, but the excess I just tuck under the front passenger seat. It creates zero problems like that. Furthermore, instead of running from the USB port inside the armrest (which will most likely not give enough USB voltage), I ran from the 9v outlet behind the armrest towards the floor of the rear seats. I picked up a 2.4a charger like this (http://amzn.to/2iMJ6U1) which comes with two 2.4a USB ports and one 3.0a USB port for quick charging a phone. Then just route the cable under the passenger seat, across to the lower door frame on the passenger side, up the side of door frame near the glove box, and then you can just tuck it into the A-pillar molding. Once you reach the roof it can be tucked entirely into the roof headliner. It's a mostly clean install that's very easy to undo quickly since the cable is just being tucked into place without needing to remove any parts. You do see a tiny bit of the cable as you route it from the door frame to the A-pillar, but that's it. The only other way I'd do it is a more permanent solution of wiring it straight into the fuse box behind the glove box.

BTW, the reason that I installed it in the rear 9v jack is because that port stays on for 10 minute after the car is turned off. That actually keeps your camera running for the full 10 minutes, sort of acting as a temporary parking camera. That method actually saved me $900 thus far because it caught some asshole back into my car and leave the scene 3 minutes after I had parked my car at Epcot. The front 9v jack works differently, and immediately turns off at the same time as the car.

I'm actually now running two dashcams also. Using a similar method I wired in a dashcam to the rear, also powered from that rear 9v jack. Routing the wire was slightly more tricky because I had to figure out a way to mount it on the rear of the trunk. But I ended up just routing some extra cord in a way that it gave a bit of extra slack that tightened up as the trunk raises. Hard to explain, but it's pretty clean and totally invisible unless the trunk is opened.

 

[Spaceman_Spiff]

9 Feet will not be enough, 20 feet is a bit too much, but the excess I just tuck under the front passenger seat. It creates zero problems like that. Furthermore, instead of running from the USB port inside the armrest (which will most likely not give enough USB voltage), I ran from the 9v outlet behind the armrest towards the floor of the rear seats. I picked up a 2.4a charger like this (http://amzn.to/2iMJ6U1) which comes with two 2.4a USB ports and one 3.0a USB port for quick charging a phone. Then just route the cable under the passenger seat, across to the lower door frame on the passenger side, up the side of door frame near the glove box, and then you can just tuck it into the A-pillar molding. Once you reach the roof it can be tucked entirely into the roof headliner. It's a mostly clean install that's very easy to undo quickly since the cable is just being tucked into place without needing to remove any parts. You do see a tiny bit of the cable as you route it from the door frame to the A-pillar, but that's it. The only other way I'd do it is a more permanent solution of wiring it straight into the fuse box behind the glove box.

BTW, the reason that I installed it in the rear 9v jack is because that port stays on for 10 minute after the car is turned off. That actually keeps your camera running for the full 10 minutes, sort of acting as a temporary parking camera. That method actually saved me $900 thus far because it caught some asshole back into my car and leave the scene 3 minutes after I had parked my car at Epcot. The front 9v jack works differently, and immediately turns off at the same time as the car.

I'm actually now running two dashcams also. Using a similar method I wired in a dashcam to the rear, also powered from that rear 9v jack. Routing the wire was slightly more tricky because I had to figure out a way to mount it on the rear of the trunk. But I ended up just routing some extra cord in a way that it gave a bit of extra slack that tightened up as the trunk raises. Hard to explain, but it's pretty clean and totally invisible unless the trunk is opened.

Thanks for the input. I know this is a dash cam thread, but I was asking so I can run the cable to my phone for Android Auto. Abundant voltage or not, it has to use those USB ports. (this was the only thread I saw where someone mentioned a length of cable)

So your rear facing dash cam is mounted on the hatch? Is it on the glass or on the plastic somewhere?

 

[Bluedrank]

Thanks for the input. I know this is a dash cam thread, but I was asking so I can run the cable to my phone for Android Auto. Abundant voltage or not, it has to use those USB ports. (this was the only thread I saw where someone mentioned a length of cable)

So your rear facing dash cam is mounted on the hatch? Is it on the glass or on the plastic somewhere?

Oh sorry I missed the phone part of your message. Well either way I'd say the 20 foot cable is the way to go if you're planning on routing it along the edges of the car like I mentioned.

And yes, the rear dashcam is mounted on the hatch, on the bottom plastic part. I played with different locations and found mounting it on the bottom right next to the windshield wiper was the least obstructive to my view.

 

[Sil3nt611]

For a hardwire install the best way to to get an add a fuse thing and used a 5A fuse for the dashcam. Like this, though I'm not positive what size fuses the Fiesta uses at the moment. No tapped wiring or exposed wires except from the headliner to the short distance to the camera. My dashcam is right behind the passenger side of the rearview mirror. Run the wire down the passenger side A pillar. If you remove the trim panels you can tuck it away nicely. The the fusebox is right there behind the glovebox. I ran mine off the moonroof circuit since I don't have a moonroof anyway (not that the dashcam draws much at all so it wouldn't really be an issue if you had one) and that turns on and off with the car. The long USB cable that came with my camera had a 12V car powerpoint connector so I bought a standalone 12V powerpoint jack. Run the positive from the powerpoint to the add a fuse and negative to a grounded existing bolt somewhere nearby the fusebox. Both the add a fuse and powerpoint can be had at autozone as well. This is the best way for hiding everything, no spliced wires, and not a lot of cable routing at least for a front camera. It works well, I haven't had an issue with it and it's nice and out of sight. I also used a right angle extension USB cable since my long cable goes straight out from the port.

 

[Bluedrank]

For a hardwire install the best way to to get an add a fuse thing and used a 5A fuse for the dashcam. Like this, though I'm not positive what size fuses the Fiesta uses at the moment. No tapped wiring or exposed wires except from the headliner to the short distance to the camera. My dashcam is right behind the passenger side of the rearview mirror. Run the wire down the passenger side A pillar. If you remove the trim panels you can tuck it away nicely. The the fusebox is right there behind the glovebox. I ran mine off the moonroof circuit since I don't have a moonroof anyway (not that the dashcam draws much at all so it wouldn't really be an issue if you had one) and that turns on and off with the car. The long USB cable that came with my camera had a 12V car powerpoint connector so I bought a standalone 12V powerpoint jack. Run the positive from the powerpoint to the add a fuse and negative to a grounded existing bolt somewhere nearby the fusebox. Both the add a fuse and powerpoint can be had at autozone as well. This is the best way for hiding everything, no spliced wires, and not a lot of cable routing at least for a front camera. It works well, I haven't had an issue with it and it's nice and out of sight. I also used a right angle extension USB cable since my long cable goes straight out from the port.

I actually am not a fan of the hardwire option simply because it turns off when the car turns off. That 10 minute timer on the rear jack saved me a whole bunch of money when my car was hit and run while parked.

 

[Sil3nt611]

I actually am not a fan of the hardwire option simply because it turns off when the car turns off. That 10 minute timer on the rear jack saved me a whole bunch of money when my car was hit and run while parked.

It was lucky you had it on the 10 minute timer jack for that time and that it happened within 10 minutes, but more often than not I park my car for hours or at least more than 10 minutes. I know they make things that will make the camera continue to roll until your car's battery gets to a certain level. If you want a true parking camera I'd say that's the way to go. The two times my old car was hit in the parking lot the front camera would have done squat. Luckily one of those times the guy left a note. People in parking lots are such jerks anymore that I park far away from highly populated areas usually to avoid door dings if nothing else. I have assigned parking at my apartment so I know who hit my car if it happens there. For now I'm sticking with the off when the car is off option.

 

[Bluedrank]

It was lucky you had it on the 10 minute timer jack for that time and that it happened within 10 minutes, but more often than not I park my car for hours or at least more than 10 minutes. I know they make things that will make the camera continue to roll until your car's battery gets to a certain level. If you want a true parking camera I'd say that's the way to go. The two times my old car was hit in the parking lot the front camera would have done squat. Luckily one of those times the guy left a note. People in parking lots are such jerks anymore that I park far away from highly populated areas usually to avoid door dings if nothing else. I have assigned parking at my apartment so I know who hit my car if it happens there. For now I'm sticking with the off when the car is off option.

I agree it was lucky. And yeah I know they make devices to convert the camera into a parking camera. But at the end of the day I weighed the pros and cons and I decided that I'd prefer to be recording for 10 minutes while I'm inside a story than not at all. I'm sure I could run some complicated setup to have it run nearly all the time, but I felt this was good enough, and it paid off.

 

[kansei]

Yeah I have one of those hardwire kits that lets it run after the car shuts off. So far so good. You can set the voltage threshold or a set time or both. I think I have mine set to 12.0v and unlimited time. It has run for multiple days in parking mode, not sure how long it'll go.

my cam setup is a BlackVue DR470-2CH, which is basically their premium model the DR650S but without the wifi and gps. Close to if not the same optics (1080p front, 720p rear). Includes everything you need to install. The hardwire kit doesn't come with add-a-fuse things so pick those up if you plan on doing a hardwire kit.

 

[Sil3nt611]

Yeah I have one of those hardwire kits that lets it run after the car shuts off. So far so good. You can set the voltage threshold or a set time or both. I think I have mine set to 12.0v and unlimited time. It has run for multiple days in parking mode, not sure how long it'll go.

my cam setup is a BlackVue DR470-2CH, which is basically their premium model the DR650S but without the wifi and gps. Close to if not the same optics (1080p front, 720p rear). Includes everything you need to install. The hardwire kit doesn't come with add-a-fuse things so pick those up if you plan on doing a hardwire kit.

Where did you mount your rear camera and how does it look from the camera? I want to get the DR650S-2CH, but the top of the rear window seems like it'd get too much spoiler and the bottom seems too low.

 

[CanadianGuy]

Where did you mount your rear camera and how does it look from the camera? I want to get the DR650S-2CH, but the top of the rear window seems like it'd get too much spoiler and the bottom seems too low.

I have that exact setup. Here is my install of teh rear.
http://www.fiestastforum.com/forum/...ower-Magic-Pro?p=227004&viewfull=1#post227004


And here is a video screen capture. This was off facebook hence the quality.

 

[Bluedrank]

Where did you mount your rear camera and how does it look from the camera? I want to get the DR650S-2CH, but the top of the rear window seems like it'd get too much spoiler and the bottom seems too low.

I personally mounted my rear one on the lower rear lid of the trunk. Looking at it from the outside, it's located just to the right of where the rear wiper sits

 

[kansei]

don't have a screenshot handy but my setup is at the top of the rear window, looks the same as CanadianGuy's setup, with a little spoiler and maybe even a touch of third brake light visible. When I got the windows tinted they removed and I was later able to reinstall the rear camera without even using the supplied extra adhesive, if you're worried about having to reposition the camera or anything.

I didn't do anything clean for the rear camera wiring though, it just loops out of the hatch seal from the interior up to the rear glass.

 

[Sil3nt611]

Nice, I'm surprised the spoiler doesn't get in the way as much as I had thought. I'll definitely mount mine on the top of the window then. I'll spend the time to wire mine into the hatch like Canadianguy. I like the clean look.

I'll be getting a polarizing filter for the front camera. The Fiesta windshield has so much glare that half of the visibility is lost on sunny days sometimes with my current camera.

 

[CanadianGuy]

Nice, I'm surprised the spoiler doesn't get in the way as much as I had thought. I'll definitely mount mine on the top of the window then. I'll spend the time to wire mine into the hatch like Canadianguy. I like the clean look.

I'll be getting a polarizing filter for the front camera. The Fiesta windshield has so much glare that half of the visibility is lost on sunny days sometimes with my current camera.

Yup got the filter HUGE improvement. Just remember to view the camera live and slowly spin the filter until it works. BTW the parts of the spoiler you are seeing is the moutnune extensions.

 

[prograded]

I have the Viofo A119S with CPL and i'm happy with it. Pretty discreet and works well enough.

 

[Im_Zee11]

I have the BlackSys 100 and It hides well I have it hard wired and I can view the videos on my phone and the app has sweet features like changing the brightness to account for your rear tint. The parking mode with motion sensor is pretty sweet. I got it off black box my car website. Highly recommend since all there stuff comes with year warranty and support. Which is nice since I had two channel one I got off of amazon crap out on me in three months.

I think blacksys is one of the better two channel/parking mode cameras for the price. It's not cheap but not expensive. Cheaper than the blackvue. Check out the their site. They have tons of videos where they go over the features, footage, installs, and long term reviews. But most importantly they have warranties because the market is flooded with crappy which is a big plus. I'm not promoting them they just do good business and hate to see you guys to spend money on crappy cams.

https://www.blackboxmycar.com/products/blacksys-ch-100b?variant=6693416193

 

[Sil3nt611]

I have the BlackSys 100 and It hides well I have it hard wired and I can view the videos on my phone and the app has sweet features like changing the brightness to account for your rear tint. The parking mode with motion sensor is pretty sweet. I got it off black box my car website. Highly recommend since all there stuff comes with year warranty and support. Which is nice since I had two channel one I got off of amazon crap out on me in three months.

I think blacksys is one of the better two channel/parking mode cameras for the price. It's not cheap but not expensive. Cheaper than the blackvue. Check out the their site. They have tons of videos where they go over the features, footage, installs, and long term reviews. But most importantly they have warranties because the market is flooded with crappy which is a big plus. I'm not promoting them they just do good business and hate to see you guys to spend money on crappy cams.

https://www.blackboxmycar.com/products/blacksys-ch-100b?variant=6693416193

It doesn't seem quite as discreet as the blackvue would be for the front camera. They just came out with the ch-200 which is 1080 front and rear, but the front camera design stayed the same. I prefer the feature set of the blacksys because I don't need the cloud feature of the blackvue dr-650s and I'd rather have the event button than the mute sensor. But then the blackvue has an optional polarizing filter which really is needed for the Fiesta windshield.

 

[Im_Zee11]

Yeah the blackvue is hard to beat if you want the a real discreet camera. I always thought the blacksys had an awkward shape for a dashcam vs the wedge and cylinder type cameras. I've been thinking about installing a sunstrip on the windshield and having the blacksys sort of peer under the strip to see if it would help hide it.

I want to say they sell the generic polarizing filters for dash cams too. I'm going to have to do my reaserch on this and get back to you on this. For now I have a dash mat spray painted matte black to help cut back on the glare because whoever thought "hey lets make these mats out of shiny material is a good idea"

 

[Sil3nt611]

I went ahead and ordered the Blackvue. I'd go for the blackvue without the cloud option for less if it was offered, but I couldn't quite do the blacksys because of the weird shape of it that would stand out too much. Plus the lack of a polarizing filter made to fit the camera. I don't want to have to make one and glue it on the camera or something. The dash reflections are really bad on this car...