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Downpipe install DIY with pics!

CanadianGuy

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Southern Ontario
#21
Thanks for the tip CanadianGuy. I think I'll try the ATF & acetone trick today. One of those bottles that the guy had in that vid would work perfect.

Oh and not sure how you'd get to that bolt from the bottom. It's invisible from there. It's fiddly to get to from the top but doable, leaning over the car. I'm only 5'8" and the car is on ramps.
I would soak a rag and stuff it on the bolt if you can. Good luck
 


OP
chalituna
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Location
Norman, OK, USA
Thread Starter #22
Thanks for the tip CanadianGuy. I think I'll try the ATF & acetone trick today. One of those bottles that the guy had in that vid would work perfect.

Oh and not sure how you'd get to that bolt from the bottom. It's invisible from there. It's fiddly to get to from the top but doable, leaning over the car. I'm only 5'8" and the car is on ramps.
Basically, i placed the deep socket over the bolt then placed the wrench aimed upward. Then with a alot of small turns later, it'll come off
 


MOFiST

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#23
Mad skillz chalituna you can't buy skillz.
Had no joy today (even with the ATF/Acetone mix) :(
Irwin's didn't grip. Now I'm thinking I may have to pull the manifold heat shield to get better angle from above.
I did try from below but was worse. Don't forget this bolt is already rounded off.
Also I don't know how you got the downpipe heat shield out the exhaust tunnel. I wasted a while trying to remove that. I hate these heat shields! Lol

My other option is to admit defeat and leave the downpipe on for now but I won't give up lightly. It's just this one bolt and I'm home free I reckon.
 


OP
chalituna
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Location
Norman, OK, USA
Thread Starter #24
Mad skillz chalituna you can't buy skillz.
Had no joy today (even with the ATF/Acetone mix) :(
Irwin's didn't grip. Now I'm thinking I may have to pull the manifold heat shield the get better angle from above.
I did try from below but was worse. Don't forget this bolt is already rounded off.
Also I don't know how you got the downpipe heat shield out the exhaust tunnel. I wasted a while trying to remove that. I hate these heat shields! Lol

My other option is to admit defeat and leave the downpipe on for now but I won't give up lightly. It's just this one bolt and I'm home free I reckon.
It's a good idea to tackle it after taking a break. The heatshield will come out if you fidget around a bit. Just try rotating it around the downpipe and try all possibilities. Once that heatshield is out, there will be more room to access that top bolt.

Good luck!
 


CanadianGuy

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#25
Mad skillz chalituna you can't buy skillz.
Had no joy today (even with the ATF/Acetone mix) :(
Irwin's didn't grip. Now I'm thinking I may have to pull the manifold heat shield to get better angle from above.
I did try from below but was worse. Don't forget this bolt is already rounded off.
Also I don't know how you got the downpipe heat shield out the exhaust tunnel. I wasted a while trying to remove that. I hate these heat shields! Lol

My other option is to admit defeat and leave the downpipe on for now but I won't give up lightly. It's just this one bolt and I'm home free I reckon.
I hope you have something like this for the round bolt. http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Industr...28158580&sr=8-1&keywords=round+bolt+extractor

I have and old set and they never let me down.
 


Sekred

1000 Post Club
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Mid North Coast
#26
Mad skillz chalituna you can't buy skillz.
Had no joy today (even with the ATF/Acetone mix) :(
Irwin's didn't grip. Now I'm thinking I may have to pull the manifold heat shield to get better angle from above.
I did try from below but was worse. Don't forget this bolt is already rounded off.
Also I don't know how you got the downpipe heat shield out the exhaust tunnel. I wasted a while trying to remove that. I hate these heat shields! Lol

My other option is to admit defeat and leave the downpipe on for now but I won't give up lightly. It's just this one bolt and I'm home free I reckon.
Hi MOFIST

That top bolt can be a problem.
One thing you can try is a 6 sided socket rather than a 12 point socket. 6 sided sockets grip the flats of the bolt rather than the corners. I would also try a 3/8 socket cause its a little smaller, about 9.5mm. Hammer it onto the bolt head and cross your fingers and toes and it just might work.
 


MOFiST

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#27
Thanks Sekred. Good ideas here. Heading down to Bunnings to grab a few more bits. I've already got new stainless m8 bolts ready to go. I'll give it another shake in a little bit. Otherwise does anyone know what the hard lines are for that sit in front of the manifold heat shield? I wish I could get that out of the way. I'll report back in a few hours.
 


MOFiST

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#28
Well thanks to all you guys I made it!
Sage advice from [MENTION=62]Sekred[/MENTION] about the socket thank you!
Didnt even need another socket. Walked outside on this quiet Easter Sunday morning and everything fell into place.
The said bolt came out with a 6 sided socket 10mm deep socket. Just needed to work smarter not doing the same thing again.
I also reckon the ATF/Acetone is a winner. Thanks again [MENTION=2253]CanadianGuy[/MENTION]!
I've just completed the entire turbo back install although it'll likely need some adjustment.

Anyway so need to put this girl back together again but on lunch break.

Pic to share!

 


CanadianGuy

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Southern Ontario
#29
Well thanks to all you guys I made it!
Sage advice from [MENTION=62]Sekred[/MENTION] about the socket thank you!
Didnt even need another socket. Walked outside on this quiet Easter Sunday morning and everything fell into place.
The said bolt came out with a 6 sided socket 10mm deep socket. Just needed to work smarter not doing the same thing again.
I also reckon the ATF/Acetone is a winner. Thanks again [MENTION=2253]CanadianGuy[/MENTION]!
I've just completed the entire turbo back install although it'll likely need some adjustment.

Anyway so need to put this girl back together again but on lunch break.

Pic to share!

Congrats! Looks good.
 


OP
chalituna
Messages
218
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81
Location
Norman, OK, USA
Thread Starter #30
Well thanks to all you guys I made it!
Sage advice from [MENTION=62]Sekred[/MENTION] about the socket thank you!
Didnt even need another socket. Walked outside on this quiet Easter Sunday morning and everything fell into place.
The said bolt came out with a 6 sided socket 10mm deep socket. Just needed to work smarter not doing the same thing again.
I also reckon the ATF/Acetone is a winner. Thanks again [MENTION=2253]CanadianGuy[/MENTION]!
I've just completed the entire turbo back install although it'll likely need some adjustment.

Anyway so need to put this girl back together again but on lunch break.

Pic to share!

Congrats! Did you coat the downpipe?
 


MOFiST

Active member
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Adelaide
#32
I agree but have been putting it off. I need to get motivated to put all the snippets together. Sounds like in being lazy well i am a bit lol but it's gonna take me a few hours most likely.

So anyway regarding the downpipe/zorst combo it's been a few days of use and loving the power bump and soundtrack over and above the tune. For people on the fence the downpipe is worth your while if you're game.
 


Messages
129
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28
Location
Ventura
#33
Removing the downpipe was one of the hardest things I've done to one of my cars so far. A word of warning to people planning on doing this in the future, you should probably just go ahead and order new o2 sensors along with your DP as one or both units from the factory will likely come out of the stock downpipe with destroyed threads. Apparently this is very common and my upstream sensor was ruined when removed, it was also a bitch and a half to get out with the threads like this. Lots of PB blaster and swearing was involved.

 


OP
chalituna
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Location
Norman, OK, USA
Thread Starter #34
Removing the downpipe was one of the hardest things I've done to one of my cars so far. A word of warning to people planning on doing this in the future, you should probably just go ahead and order new o2 sensors along with your DP as one or both units from the factory will likely come out of the stock downpipe with destroyed threads. Apparently this is very common and my upstream sensor was ruined when removed, it was also a bitch and a half to get out with the threads like this. Lots of PB blaster and swearing was involved.

Sucks about your o2 sensor...

It is highly recommended to soak the o2 sensor, possibly overnight if must, before tackling the sensors. Since o2 sensor gets extremely hot, the threads will be warped/seized. When I installed my downpipe, I was fortunate to have another vehicle available to use.
 


Messages
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Location
Erie
#35
I would think this was covered somewhere and from the sound of it the pipe is very hard to get out once disconnected but is it possible to leave the O2 sensors in and remove them on a bench vise? Or leaving them in make the pipe's removal impossible?
 


jayrod1980

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Viva Las Vegas!
#36
Thanks for all the information! Seeing this thread gave me the courage to tackle this on my own. I went ahead and bought the two O2 sensors so that I wouldn't have to deal with the pain and trouble of wrenching them off. Do i need anything other than what's been been mentioned here for tools? How about jack stands?
 


OP
chalituna
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Location
Norman, OK, USA
Thread Starter #37
Thanks for all the information! Seeing this thread gave me the courage to tackle this on my own. I went ahead and bought the two O2 sensors so that I wouldn't have to deal with the pain and trouble of wrenching them off. Do i need anything other than what's been been mentioned here for tools? How about jack stands?
Ah yes, use jack stands whenever you're going to be working underneath the car. If you happen to have a second car or have a dayoff, just let the o2 sensor soak with penetrating fluid overnight. Spray them generously at night, and spray them again in the next morning, then use the proper o2 socket to remove it. Remember, metal expands when applied to heat so it's imperative that you work on the o2 sensor when they're cold.
 


C. love

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Location
rapid city
#38
Fantastic write up man. I see you said it took you 8 hours, i am gonna time myself and see how long it takes. With your write up I venture that will cut my time in half. I will also try and count the curse words I use as they are usually frequent when i work on cars ha ha
 


Messages
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42
Location
Boston
#39
The worst part of this job is how much you'll tear your hands up on all the plastic zip ties while reaching over he back of the motor. Don't need to remove the cowl but it would make it easier. The main thing is to remove both O2 sensors before loosening up the downpipe or you'll never get it out unless you decide you're going to mangle the sensors.
 


jayrod1980

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Location
Viva Las Vegas!
#40
I decided based on some info that I'm not going to do the down pipe at this point. Unfortunately that means now I have two o2 sensors from ford on their way to my house with no use. Maybe I'll just sell them on one of these forums.
 




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