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Blend Door Actuator Issue Thread
- Thread starter backofthenet
- Start date
![[bash]](/images/smilies/icon_smile_bash.gif "Bash [bash]"){kind=icon}
After inspecting things, I realized that the part I got looked the same one the outside, but was totally different inside. It looked like it was for a non-auto climate control because there were only 2 prongs at the plug where as the original had 5 on it. Ordered another one and slapped it in and haven't had problems again yet. I will note that the plastic gears on the new part have a bluish tint to them, maybe they're built a little stronger idk. The part number on my piece had the letter "k" at the end, but was a direct fit.
Popped up for me a week or two ago. Only makes loud clicking noises when I switch to front air only, so I keep it on front and footwell, or defrost for now. Planning to take the car in after the new year to get a host of things looked at. Hopefully the dealer doesn't give me too much shit about warranty work.
Alright, so after spending 5+ hours working on this and researching, I would like to add some notes to what has already been documented in this thread.
First and foremost, the Motorcraft YH1895 is NOT the correct part for Fiesta STs with automatic climate control, as stated above. This module comes with only two prongs instead of five for the plug, and will only allow air to blow out of your defrost vents. The part otherwise looks identical. HERE is what the plug looks like on the YH1895. The module in our car has 5 prongs like I said, not the two (you can really only see one) pictured here.
Next up, there's some techniques to servicing this part that made it easier. I'll describe my method below, which is similar to the one documented earlier in the thread.
1. Disconnect the battery and make sure there's no residual power left in the car. The car will have to relearn the new position of the actuator when you put the new one in. You will also be working with an airbag, so disconnecting the battery is just as important for your own safety.
2. You can remove the seat, I have the Recaro package so I opted not to. I slid it all the way back and moved the steering wheel all the way up.
3. Remove the brake pedal sensor. From underneath, twist it clockwise. Here is what it looks like from underneath.
4. Remove the two 10mm nuts holding the knee airbag on. The right one is easy, the left one is hard. I used my smallest ratchet with a wobble extension for the left one.
5. Pull out the knee airbag by popping out the tabs holding it in place. Be meticulous because again, this is an airbag. It will eventually come free and hang from two small wires. Put something under it to prevent stress on the wires.
6. To get better visibility and allow for better light, remove this vent by pulling it gently away from the center of the car.
7. You can now see the actuator, as seen in the middle of the picture here. Removing it requires unscrewing two T20 torx bits, one below and one above. Removing the top one is in my opinion the hardest part of the replacement, I found it best to do it "blind" by using my right arm and left hand to guide the bit onto the screw, like this. This prevents you from having to lay underneath and gives you a better angle to get torque on the screw.
8. Here is the view with the actuator removed. You can rotate the big gears with your fingers in order to get the correct orientation in the hole for the new part.
9. Reverse the process. If you're clumsy and drop a screw like I did, you can remove the side panel as shown here.
10. DO NOT start the car after installing. Reconnect the battery and put the car in aux mode (turn on without foot on the clutch) and let the system "wake up" for 30 seconds, then you can start it.
Tools I found useful: 1/4 in and 3/8 in gearless ratchets, 10mm regular and deep sockets, magnetic LED lights, and wobble extensions. If I had a right angle screwdriver, this process would be much quicker.
Does anybody know the right part to order since YH1895 is wrong?
First and foremost, the Motorcraft YH1895 is NOT the correct part for Fiesta STs with automatic climate control, as stated above. This module comes with only two prongs instead of five for the plug, and will only allow air to blow out of your defrost vents. The part otherwise looks identical. HERE is what the plug looks like on the YH1895. The module in our car has 5 prongs like I said, not the two (you can really only see one) pictured here.
Next up, there's some techniques to servicing this part that made it easier. I'll describe my method below, which is similar to the one documented earlier in the thread.
1. Disconnect the battery and make sure there's no residual power left in the car. The car will have to relearn the new position of the actuator when you put the new one in. You will also be working with an airbag, so disconnecting the battery is just as important for your own safety.
2. You can remove the seat, I have the Recaro package so I opted not to. I slid it all the way back and moved the steering wheel all the way up.
3. Remove the brake pedal sensor. From underneath, twist it clockwise. Here is what it looks like from underneath.
4. Remove the two 10mm nuts holding the knee airbag on. The right one is easy, the left one is hard. I used my smallest ratchet with a wobble extension for the left one.
5. Pull out the knee airbag by popping out the tabs holding it in place. Be meticulous because again, this is an airbag. It will eventually come free and hang from two small wires. Put something under it to prevent stress on the wires.
6. To get better visibility and allow for better light, remove this vent by pulling it gently away from the center of the car.
7. You can now see the actuator, as seen in the middle of the picture here. Removing it requires unscrewing two T20 torx bits, one below and one above. Removing the top one is in my opinion the hardest part of the replacement, I found it best to do it "blind" by using my right arm and left hand to guide the bit onto the screw, like this. This prevents you from having to lay underneath and gives you a better angle to get torque on the screw.
8. Here is the view with the actuator removed. You can rotate the big gears with your fingers in order to get the correct orientation in the hole for the new part.
9. Reverse the process. If you're clumsy and drop a screw like I did, you can remove the side panel as shown here.
10. DO NOT start the car after installing. Reconnect the battery and put the car in aux mode (turn on without foot on the clutch) and let the system "wake up" for 30 seconds, then you can start it.
Tools I found useful: 1/4 in and 3/8 in gearless ratchets, 10mm regular and deep sockets, magnetic LED lights, and wobble extensions. If I had a right angle screwdriver, this process would be much quicker.
Does anybody know the right part to order since YH1895 is wrong?
Not sure if this issue is related to the blend door actuator or not, but I've noticed that my heater temperature is inconsistent. What I mean is that if I'm driving and using defrost/heater, for example, sometimes 82* is very hot and sometimes it's cool. It's roughly the same temperatures outside when this happens (40s) so I don't think it's colder days causing it.
Early '16 so it has a build date sometime near the end of '15 I'd have to dig the paperwork back out but yeah, they updated it, now the max-defrost doesn't work, the A/C turns on when it wants to, and the hand warmer vents don't work at all. I'd say... probably skip this one unless you have time to kill at the dealership.
This could be normal. I keep mine on "HI" all the time and get the same behavior. It's dependent upon engine temp. On long drives it can get pretty toasty but the average <30 minute trip doesn't usually result with super hot output.
One thing I noticed is that even if it's no where near 85F in the cabin, output when set to 85F is cooler than if set to HI... which is why I just keep it on HI. Any less and it is *ALWAYS* blending vs working as hard as possible to achieve the set temperature. It seems it favors running higher on a lower temperature versus higher temperature on a lower speed setting. Personally, I like the foot warmer...
One thing I noticed is that even if it's no where near 85F in the cabin, output when set to 85F is cooler than if set to HI... which is why I just keep it on HI. Any less and it is *ALWAYS* blending vs working as hard as possible to achieve the set temperature. It seems it favors running higher on a lower temperature versus higher temperature on a lower speed setting. Personally, I like the foot warmer...
Dag nabbit! I remember seeing this thread as I was lurking before signing up for the forum. Tuesday was actually a little warm here and sure enough, click-click-click from the center console.
I voted in the poll, but for the thread, I have a 2014 FiST with ~16,800 miles. Guess it is time to call the dealer and make an appointment.
Oh well.
I voted in the poll, but for the thread, I have a 2014 FiST with ~16,800 miles. Guess it is time to call the dealer and make an appointment.
Oh well.
I have 46K on mine, just started doing it. The info here doesn't seem to give a definite part number (probably because no one knows for sure) but in case someone does, please chime in. No one wants to work for 2+ hours just to put the wrong part in. Looking through RockAuto there seems to be a few different versions with one marked 'popular' which I would assume is the correct item (DORMAN 604251 {#BE8Z19E616A}
Also, I figured out that if you leave the air on any setting (for instance low fan) permanently, the system will not need to 'recalibrate' every time you start/stop the car. No more clicking, a temporary fix for the time being I suppose.
Also, I figured out that if you leave the air on any setting (for instance low fan) permanently, the system will not need to 'recalibrate' every time you start/stop the car. No more clicking, a temporary fix for the time being I suppose.
I think part (ha!) of the issue with the part numbers is that there are two actuators, one on the passenger side and one on the driver's side.
After talking to the service adviser and tech, it sounds like the driver's side is mode controlled and the passenger side is temp controlled. Both can have the same failure, the little plastic gear sheers a tooth and click-click-click.
Mine was the driver's side actuator. I'll have to look at my receipt and see if the part number is on there.
After talking to the service adviser and tech, it sounds like the driver's side is mode controlled and the passenger side is temp controlled. Both can have the same failure, the little plastic gear sheers a tooth and click-click-click.
Mine was the driver's side actuator. I'll have to look at my receipt and see if the part number is on there.
![[redface]](/images/smilies/redface.gif "Red Face [redface]")
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