2 or 4 or 6 Point Pierce Motosports Brace

[RAAMaudio]

I built my own 2 point brace as it is also the rear mount for my undertray and has a lip around .70" down to break up the air flow off the undertray, like a wickerbill would on a wing.

I really looked the underside of the car over as well as the manager of the Ford race shop at MMP, they take care of the Academy cars as well as build and maintain dozens of race cars. We both felt there was no need for more than the 2 point brace.

BUT, I am going to make my own additional bracing to test, mine will be out of the airflow more than the one offered for the car and not as pretty, and not made to sell, just for my testing needs and run it or make a nicer one if it improves anything.

Just because it does not look like a part may be needed testing is the only way to be sure at times

 

[antarctica24]

I built my own 2 point brace as it is also the rear mount for my undertray and has a lip around .70" down to break up the air flow off the undertray, like a wickerbill would on a wing.

I really looked the underside of the car over as well as the manager of the Ford race shop at MMP, they take care of the Academy cars as well as build and maintain dozens of race cars. We both felt there was no need for more than the 2 point brace.

BUT, I am going to make my own additional bracing to test, mine will be out of the airflow more than the one offered for the car and not as pretty, and not made to sell, just for my testing needs and run it or make a nicer one if it improves anything.

Just because it does not look like a part may be needed testing is the only way to be sure at times

I know you posted a picture but I cant find it, can you post the link. Also, how are you going to evac the air under the hood? The other question is if you create a vacuum by putting the undertray on the car, now you are pulling air forcefully through the IC and Radiator right? If you open the hood or vent the hood to drag that air out to release under hood pressure, are you not dragging hot air into the intake because it is coming from beneath? If you are not creating an exit for the air, the air will be become stagnant under the hood and you could have a fire from overheating. What are your thoughts here?

I have been looking at the possibility of getting fresh air for the intake in a 1970 style cowl in the center of the hood catching the air that is sitting at the bottom of the windshield when the car is moving, creating a plate like you did but evacuating the air on the sides like are they are doing in the FiST Race Cars.

 

[RAAMaudio]

I am waiting until I put it back on the car but I have a big duct on the undertray to blow air up towards the DP and help pull air out of the bay.

I might add two NACA ducts further forward and to the sides to pull more air in as well if needed.

And, looking at different hood vents.

My intake is a modified NACA duct in the grill area, out of the the path of air to the coolers, 3" lined brake duct hose, a bit ram air actually......I guess anyway
When it was cold out I was blowing out the plug spark over 6k RPM on tuning runs so was going to unhook the hose and put it behind the radiator for winter but ended up taking off for the rest of the season.

There is a cowl intake already if you can live with the noise, LOUD!

 

[Izzy]

Installed my 6 point today. The only ones that lined up were the two front bolts. Every other one was off. Had to lift using a jack at different spots to get them to line up. I will never uninstall it. I'll sell the car with it before dealing with it again. RPITA!!

 

[WhiteFords]

Installed my 6 point today. The only ones that lined up were the two front bolts. Every other one was off. Had to lift using a jack at different spots to get them to line up. I will never uninstall it. I'll sell the car with it before dealing with it again. RPITA!!

I had similar frustration installing my 6 point brace. I had success by hanging the brace off the front control arm bolts, and leaving the bolts just snug. Then, I put a long drift in the center hole on the passenger side, and installed the rear-most bolt. Then I repeated the same thing on the rear-most bolt on the driver side. Then I installed the center bolts. Without a drift and this method of installation, the brace would be back in the box.

But in conclusion, it fits really well. Thankfully, its not really a service part, so it should last at least as long as I own the car.

 

[koozy]

I couldn't get past the quality of the 6 point I ordered. Welds were crappy, barely a layer of paint in some places. I put it up for sale along with the strut tower bar as soon as I got them.

 

[WhiteFords]

Yes, fitment is spot on, but the weld quality was much worse than I was expecting from a shop that has such an enthusiastic fan base. It's not rocket science to do production-line MIG welding. But if any welds do break I can make repairs myself.

I believe mine was powder coated, and quite well done.

 

[koozy]

yeah.. I was pretty disappointed. I just couldn't put something that I considered junk on my car and felt was less than factory fit and finish quality.

 

[D1JL]

@kooze I am sure that if you had contacted Pierce this would have been taken care of.
And you are not that far apart.

As for others with 6 point brace install problems.
These things are built with tight tolerances otherwise they would not work as well.
If the holes were made larger or slotted for greater ease of installation you would loose the strength and rigidity that is trying to be added.

With the 6 point brace the back two mount points helps tie the "K" member9engine sub-frame) to the body.
I believe this is the best of the braces to use.
Here in California our freeways have rain grooves in them this causes the car to dance around a little.
The 6 point brace helps correct this.


I need to write a new install procedure for this brace.
I admit this one is better done on a lift.
The last one I did on a lift took about 30 minutes.
Laying under the car on your back takes much longer.

The problem mostly occurs when using jack stands and they are placed too far back on the car.
The "K" member is mounted with isolators therefore it sags foreword when the jack stands are too far back.

Yes, a drift works as described above however a "come along" works very well also.
You can connect to a body/frame hole near the rear of the car.
Another method would be, with the car still on jack stands, after the brace is in place (not tight) and the back two holes don't line up.
Using a floor jack and a block of wood, place the jack at where the transmission connects to the engine block.
DO NOT PLACE IN THE MIDLE OF THE OIL PAN.
Lift the engine slightly only to relieve the pressure.
DO NOT LIFT THE CAR OFF THE JACK STANDS.

Yes, I agree that it is a little more work but the end result is worth it.

I am going to their shop on Monday and will talk to them about this.




Dave

 

[koozy]

There was nothing Pierce could do. I was done with them.

 

[Kip2MyLou]

There was nothing Pierce could do. I was done with them.

You going to go the TB route now? Or already have??

 

[koozy]

You going to go the TB route now? Or already have??

No, no bars anytime soon. There are some other options beside TB like Ultra Racing and Summit that have similar items and more.

 

[Kip2MyLou]

No, no bars anytime soon. There are some other options beside TB like Ultra Racing and Summit that have similar items and more.

Oh okay, just wondering. I'm just currently running the 2 pt brace and love the quality and craftsmanship. I thought that was all I needed for spirited daily driving.

I do plan to get the TB rear torsion bar though; I've only heard great things about that paired with the 2 pt brace up front.

 

[D1JL]

Oh okay, just wondering. I'm just currently running the 2 pt brace and love the quality and craftsmanship. I thought that was all I needed for spirited daily driving.

I do plan to get the TB rear torsion bar though; I've only heard great things about that paired with the 2 pt brace up front.

Danny makes fine products, I have had them on my last Fiesta and my FiST before.
You may however might want to wait just a little while longer to see Pierce's new rear torsion bar before you decide.
I know it will work better and will be available in 3 different torsion settings.
That is why I am going to their shop on Monday.

I should be doing a pre production write up on it next week.




Dave

 

[Kip2MyLou]

Danny makes fine products, I have had them on my last Fiesta and my FiST before.
You may however might want to wait just a little while longer to see Pierce's new rear torsion bar before you decide.
I know it will work better and will be available in 3 different torsion settings.
That is why I am going to their shop on Monday.

I should be doing a pre production write up on it next week.




Dave

Even better, thanks man for the heads up.

Are you allowed to say what the 3 settings will be??

And I haven't gotten the answer for this, but the Pierce 2 pt brace is the same as the TB front traction bar, correct?

 

[D1JL]

Even better, thanks man for the heads up.

Are you allowed to say what the 3 settings will be??

And I haven't gotten the answer for this, but the Pierce 2 pt brace is the same as the TB front traction bar, correct?

Please understand that it is James Pierce that is the professional race driver/instructor, that he now owns a racecar prep shop, and he has been building these kind of braces for many years.
I just have been lucky enough to do testing on some of his latest products.

Jim came up with a simple way to make 3 different torsion settings it is up to him to name them.
They will be designed to compliment other modifications done to the car.

As to the 2 point lower front brace by both TB and Pierce being the same.
They are both designed to do the same thing and to some extent do accomplish that.
Pierce uses chrome moly steel for strength, lightness, and rigidity, TB uses mild steel.
Chrome moly is a little more expensive but it is what race car chassis are made of.
So the TB brace needs to be thicker and therefore heavier to accomplish the same strength.
That being said, I know that the TB braces are not very heavy so I can only believe that they are not as strong.
On the plus side, being made from mild steel TB can offer braces at a lower price and this may be what is best for some.
TB braces are made of multiple pieces welded together rather than being bent.
I am not saying this is wrong, just not what I have seen in professional chassis building.



So you decide, are they the same?
I am glad to see that there is more than one choice.
This gives us, the end users the opportunity to choose what is best for us and our needs.




Dave

 

[Rhinopolis]

What do I torque the bolts to after installing the Pierce 4 point brace?

Thanks,

Ryan

 

[D1JL]

What do I torque the bolts to after installing the Pierce 4 point brace?

Thanks,

Ryan

What I find in the Service Manual is:

Front to 63 Nm then 180 degrees.
Middle to 100 Nm then 240 degrees.
Rear to 48 Nm.




Dave

 

[Rhinopolis]

Thanks, Dave!

Here's a link to a ft lbs conversion calculator for anyone interested

http://www.unitconversion.org/energy/newton-meters-to-foot-pounds-conversion.html

 

[D1JL]

Thanks, Dave!

Here's a link to a ft lbs conversion calculator for anyone interested

http://www.unitconversion.org/energy/newton-meters-to-foot-pounds-conversion.html

Thanks for that.
I have a digital torque wrench that reads in newton-meters so I don't think of that any more.




Dave