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DHM Race Crash Bar and Intercooler!

Trader history for DHM (0)

twolf

Active member
Messages
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Location
Canton
I put mine on the IC because it looks amazing. I'd assume MOST people are retaining the stock location BOV or turbosmart replacement unless they're big turbo, in which case Russ and ATP both include a hot side pipe with flange in their kits.
 


Messages
75
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19
Location
Detroit
If you guys want an easier way to open up the front grill then just use a handheld trim router. You take a Unibit (stepped drill bit) and drill starter holes in all of the closed off areas. Then you take your trim router with a flush trim bit (or pattern bit) and go around the inside of each hex until the material is removed. The bearing on the trim bit will only allow the material to be removed flush with what it is following along, hence the name. Get the smallest bit you can so the corners aren't a problem. You will still have to sand down the tight corners but a huge portion of the work will be done in minutes.


I've seen posts of people taking hours to do this and that is insane.


-Josh
 


twolf

Active member
Messages
607
Likes
266
Location
Canton
If you guys want an easier way to open up the front grill then just use a handheld trim router. You take a Unibit (stepped drill bit) and drill starter holes in all of the closed off areas. Then you take your trim router with a flush trim bit (or pattern bit) and go around the inside of each hex until the material is removed. The bearing on the trim bit will only allow the material to be removed flush with what it is following along, hence the name. Get the smallest bit you can so the corners aren't a problem. You will still have to sand down the tight corners but a huge portion of the work will be done in minutes.


I've seen posts of people taking hours to do this and that is insane.


-Josh
Not a bad idea. I might give it a shot if I can find my router.
 


Messages
75
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19
Location
Detroit
I agree you can get a great result by sanding. This just expedites the whole process. I thought I'd give people another option. In all honestly I haven't even done it on my FIST yet I did it on a friend's Focus ST.
 


jayrod1980

Active member
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189
Location
Viva Las Vegas!
I agree you can get a great result by sanding. This just expedites the whole process. I thought I'd give people another option. In all honestly I haven't even done it on my FIST yet I did it on a friend's Focus ST.
Honestly, if you are using an angle grinder or anything high speed like that, its more melting than sanding. Thankfully the melted stuff, when hardened, has a different consistency and doesn't adhere like the intact plastic. I just ended up heating it down with the flap wheel until I got through most of it, and then periodically pulling or slicing off the globs of hardened melted plastic. once I got close, I used a razor blade on every comb on the backside to ensure it looked OEM from the front... that's the only reason it took me personally that long. However, I'm like a damn turtle with almost everything I do unfortunately. I'm just happy I didn't butcher or destroy the grill.
 


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72
Location
Clyde
Did you guys just use jackstands to support the radiator while swapping the bars or am I missing something?
 


Messages
234
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72
Location
Clyde
I used a cooler and a jack! haha! A little redneck, but it worked.

That's definitely something I would do. haha. Luckily I have extra jackstands so I can leave the cooler easily accessable, just in case there is something inside it that I want [cheers] . So you just supported it vertically and the hoses and what-not had enough bite to keep it from tipping or moving axially? It did feel pretty light.
 


twolf

Active member
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Location
Canton
That's definitely something I would do. haha. Luckily I have extra jackstands so I can leave the cooler easily accessable, just in case there is something inside it that I want [cheers] . So you just supported it vertically and the hoses and what-not had enough bite to keep it from tipping or moving axially? It did feel pretty light.
Well if I recall correctly the top part is attached to the shroud, it's not an issue, as you said it's extremely light.

The radiator literally didn't move at all, I supported it with the jack before I un-did the bolts and it was 100% fine.

I had jack stands but they wouldn't have clicked into the perfect height the same way the jack did. If that makes sense...
 


Messages
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72
Location
Clyde
I know what you mean. The jackstands didn't have a lock point at the correct height for where you wanted the radiator. But it sounds pretty straightforward. Thanks for the feedback.
 


westcoaST

1000 Post Club
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290
Location
Corona
I used my mechanics seat. It has a piston that moves the seat up and down. Set it and it held up the radiator.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 


Messages
75
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19
Location
Detroit
I used my mechanics seat. It has a piston that moves the seat up and down. Set it and it held up the radiator.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
When I first saw the rad start to drop I put the bolt back in and looked around for objects to keep it propped up lol. It turns out a box I had and a scrap 2x4 fit perfectly without doing anything else.



oh and a pic for the topic:




 


TempeST

Active member
Messages
587
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109
Location
Honolulu
J-Line Charge Temps 79.2 -> 90 = 10.8 degree increase over third gear pull
J-Line Charge Air Temps.jpg

DHM FMIC Charge Temp 89.8 -> 93.6 = 3.8 degree increase over third gear pull
DHM Race FMIC CHarge temps.jpg
 


Perfblue15

1000 Post Club
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1,375
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342
Location
Canyon country
Here's my quick comparison shot of the j-line vs the dhm unit. There is literally no comparison. The DHM unit is literally twice the size of the j-line.


Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk
 


twolf

Active member
Messages
607
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266
Location
Canton
I'm beyond happy with the performance of this IC.

Seems to mildly break physics, as it drops my charge temps below ambient. Not sure what's up with that, but oh well.

4th gear pull:

 




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