Fiesta ST Sound Symposer

[Drifter]

[video=youtube;CquuP5ofrYw]https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=CquuP5ofrYw[/video]

 

[Sully]

Does anyone else hear a rattle when their sound symposer kicks in at higher rpms?

 

[envyist]

Does anyone else hear a rattle when their sound symposer kicks in at higher rpms?

Mine seems to do that whenever it opens up, it's making me want to disable it completely

 

[TForan]

Deleting it totally removes all vibration and buzzes.

 

[Sully]

That's not exactly something I'm interested in doing. Haha. I like the sound A LOT when it works and doesn't buzz. I think it has something to do with a squeak in my steering wheel though. When I turn the wheel I get a very audible creak, kind of like an old rocking chair. I'm hoping getting one fixed will help take care of the other

 

[Sekred]

The guts of it.

 

[BoostBumps]

Sound Symposer - Stealth Delete

I like many others have quickly grown tired over the past few weeks of hearing those annoying whirling hollow sounds and faux exhaust noises coming into my cabin caused by the sound symposer which Ford chose to install in the FiST... I finally decided to eliminate this feature without appearing as if anything was modified or removed...

The solution as already mentioned previously by a few others is very easy....I chose to just simply plug the source on the charge pipe that feeds the symposer box....And as a result of doing so I no longer hear those hollow swirling sounds which often occur during low-mid throttle accelerations...And quite frankly now I can really enjoy hearing my Cobb exhaust system which now sounds far better even in the cabin while cruising after that sound symposer function was effectively removed from the system...

Now if your only interested in not channeling the sound into the cabin you can just simply remove the symposer tube after the box which leads to the cabin...

But more importantly (IMO)....Considering that I've now raised max boost levels higher (with my current tune), along with some future projects planned, I simply wasn't comfortable having that much boost pressure channeled to a sound symposer box diaphragm which could get damaged over time and cause some problematic leaks to occur since the symposer source is taken directly off the charge pipe...As a side note: Eventually I'd like to have a pipe fabricated to replace the current stock pipe that connects from IC hardpipe (cold side) to the throttle body which would eliminate the port leading to the symposer...

Outlined and shown below is a "how to" ...(which btw was not original on my part as I have read through a few other examples posted on other forums)....

1) Spread the hose clamp open and remove the lower hose (see #2 in Pic below) from the Symposer box to charge pipe port..



2) Insert Dorman rubber (1" - 1.125") expansion plug (#02600) which you can purchase at any Autozone store for $2.99...





3) Once the rubber expansion plug was inserted and secured in place re-install the symposer hose back over the plug and then reinstalled the symposer box such that you'd never know anything was modified...



The entire project took less than 20 min and cost $3.00....

 

[westcoaST]

I just placed a rubber test tube plug into the hose that connects to the symposer and the firewall, and then replaced the hose back onto the symposer. Its the #1 connection in the picture, above. This way, the symposer appears to be in place, but the sound is not transmitted into the cabin. Cost me nothing. Got it from work.

 

[BoostBumps]

I just placed a rubber test tube plug into the hose that connects to the symposer and the firewall, and then replaced the hose back onto the symposer. Its the #1 connection in the picture, above. This way, the symposer appears to be in place, but the sound is not transmitted into the cabin. Cost me nothing. Got it from work.

that would work very well for eliminating the sound into the cabin...

However, as I mentioned earlier in addition to eliminating the cabin sound, I simply wasn't comfortable in having that much boost pressure channeled to a plastic sound symposer box with diaphragm which can get damaged over time with raised boost levels and cause some problematic leaks to occur since the symposer source is taken directly from the charge pipe...

This approach which cost a whole $3 resolves that "potential" problem as well....

 

[westcoaST]

You're exchanging rubber for plastic. Rubber also degrades and can leak over time. I plan on welding a plug into the charge tube, then attaching the Cobb hose and making everything look stock.

 

[BoostBumps]

You're exchanging rubber for plastic. Rubber also degrades and can leak over time. I plan on welding a plug into the charge tube, then attaching the Cobb hose and making everything look stock.

And how long do you suppose it going to take to degrade as in this application its not going to be coming in contact with any corrosive fluids or materials which could accelerate the degradation of rubber such as oil? (honest question)

I didn't exchange anything...I simply inserted the expansion plug into the plastic charge pipe port that's clamped to a stock rubber hose...

And its not as if this is expansion plug approach is anything new which has by used many folks to accomplish the very same thing with great success....should hold up very well and does exactly what I'm intending it to do...

 

[westcoaST]

Symposer is made from plastic, your plug is made from rubber, and is used as a temporary freeze plug.

 

[BoostBumps]

Also for $6.45 a 32mm blanking plug can be inserted and clamped into the stock hose (see location # 4 noted on image below)....

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tbs-ts-0205-2015/overview/

TBS-TS-0205-2015

 

[Sourskittle]

I put a sock in my noise box like 4 days after buying the car. I called it my "S550 fiesta" for a while. Then I did the dp and exhaust... Not I habe that same expansion plug and used a marker to color it black. I ground off the tube flush though. Had to hammer it in before I tightened it any.

 

[dalecooper]

I really need to try this.... seems ridiculously simple thanks to boostbumps pictures and dorman part number!

 

[D1JL]

I put a sock in my noise box

I did the same thing but she took it out.
Maybe I should have tied her hands.


Dave

 

[stuntdoogie]

I did the same thing but she took it out.
Maybe I should have tied her hands.


Dave

Lol

 

[Darmie]

I completed this last night and took it for a ride. I think it does allow the aftermarket exhaust to sound crisp with out this cabin sound. However, I still hear a bit of the whirling hollow sounds. It's reduced somewhat but still there. What do I look for to eliminate it all? I did ensure that the plug was tighten down inside the tube.

 

[BoostBumps]

I completed this last night and took it for a ride. I think it does allow the aftermarket exhaust to sound crisp with out this cabin sound. However, I still hear a bit of the whirling hollow sounds. It's reduced somewhat but still there. What do I look for to eliminate it all? I did ensure that the plug was tighten down inside the tube.

Just simply pop off the "ribbed" tube after the symposer box (#1 shown below) and see if that makes any difference in your whirling sound...I can't say I've heard the same sound on mine...From what I've read here on the forum many folks have just just simply remove this tube...or stuff the symposer box as mentioned above with a dirty sock (haha...j/k)

 

[Darmie]

Thanks. I'll give it a shot tonight. Looks easy enough. Just like I thought getting to that clamp was going to be easy.. The space in there I think is worse than working on some of my radio control stuff.