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Mishimoto j line bolt on FEELER
- Thread starter CMbuildz Racing
- Start date
OP
Thread Starter
#64
Thread Starter
#64
1 bracket left for the pre sale deal guys ... All the others pre sales have been shipped
$50 shipped 1 left
Hx40pwrd4g63t@yahoo.com
$50 shipped 1 left
Hx40pwrd4g63t@yahoo.com
OP
Thread Starter
#69
Thread Starter
#69
All pre sales sold ... Thx for your support guys means a lot ... These jline brackets are now $75 shipped to your door
Send payment to:
Hx40pwrd4g63t@yahoo.com
Send payment to:
Hx40pwrd4g63t@yahoo.com
I personally watched this bracket get installed on [MENTION=2698]mrdabbs[/MENTION] car. It almost makes me want to remove my DIY brackets and use the bracket. This is a really nice product and is the true no cutting option to run the J-line.
Awesome product chris. I will be purchasing one if I ever decide to remove my front bumper. Again .... lol
Awesome product chris. I will be purchasing one if I ever decide to remove my front bumper. Again .... lol
[MENTION=2835]roto23[/MENTION] The intercooler isn't going to do anything to prolong your turbos life. The only thing that's going to help with that is allowing your turbine to spool down before shutting off your engine. As for an intercooler adding horsepower. It's not going to directly. What it will do, is allow your car to not lose the horsepower it's already making by cooling down the super heated air your turbo is producing. A colder denser charge is going to make more power then hot thin air. You'll feel a difference if your making multiple wot passes as a larger intercooler will be able to handle that much better then the stock piece before getting what's referred to as heat soaked. Sorry for the long winded response! Hope it helps!
OP
Thread Starter
#75
Thread Starter
#75
Essentially yes does increase hp by 5 to 10% ... Will it be noticeable are just a bolt on? Defiantly... By slapping on a aftermarket intercooler such are the jline your intake temps will decrease noticeably
Few great examples I found online
1.Hot air is less dense and therefore contains less molecules of oxygen per unit volume. This means less air for the motor in a given stroke and therefore less power produced.
2.Hot air also causes a higher cylinder temperature and therefore can aid in pre-detonation of the combustion cycle causing what we call, detonation.
When intake air pressures are kept at a modest or low boost pressure, an intercooler may not be necessary for your set-up. That being said, a colder denser charge will not only be safer for your motor, but add power as well. With their not being to many things that ad safety and engine longevity as well as power, adding an intercooler to your forced induction set-up is a no brainer.
Few great examples I found online
1.Hot air is less dense and therefore contains less molecules of oxygen per unit volume. This means less air for the motor in a given stroke and therefore less power produced.
2.Hot air also causes a higher cylinder temperature and therefore can aid in pre-detonation of the combustion cycle causing what we call, detonation.
When intake air pressures are kept at a modest or low boost pressure, an intercooler may not be necessary for your set-up. That being said, a colder denser charge will not only be safer for your motor, but add power as well. With their not being to many things that ad safety and engine longevity as well as power, adding an intercooler to your forced induction set-up is a no brainer.
OP
Thread Starter
#78
Thread Starter
#78
Alright guys got 8 brackets that are coming back from powder coating tomorrow ... I will have 8 ready to ship by tomorrow after get your orders in $75 shipped
Send payment to
Hx40pwrd4g63t@yahoo.com
Send payment to
Hx40pwrd4g63t@yahoo.com
So a few days ago I went to CMbuildz race shop in Simi Valley to meet Chris the owner, and creator of the Fiesta J-Line intercooler bracket. He's created a great bolt on solution for those wanting to install the J-Line without and cutting of your bumper. This post is very picture heavy sorry in advance!
It installs very straight forward.
First remove your front bumper.
Then remove the small stock unit.
For size comparison the stock unit is much smaller.
Then you will have to remove (unbolt, no cutting) this piece. It is not used with the new intercooler. It is a mounting point for the stock unit.
Then fit the new CMbuildz bracket.
It mounts very easily utilizing the radiator support mount. The hole is also oblong to allow for side to side adjustment.
Then using the supplied bolts from Mishimoto with a little bit of blue thread lock, go ahead and mount up the intercooler. The intercooler is flipped with the "M" facing in. This may change in the future, more on this later.
(bad photo) Here's another
So now you should be looking like this.
Then your going to want to mock up your couplers and check where they need to be trimmed.
I used HPS 4" length couplers so they could be trimmed to fit. Here you can see that they were too long and interfered with the bumper mounting back up. You want to make sure that they aren't much past the crash bar.
After you have them trimmed up go ahead and put in your hose joiners and clamp everything nice and tight with quality T-bolt clamps. I used HPS as well.
you can see it fits great behind the lower cowl supports. Others on line have cut this and trimmed a lot of this lower but with his bracket all of that is eliminated allowing you to return to stock if necessary.
At this point you can start mounting the bumper back up. Make sure to reconnect fog light connections before you put the headlights back in. This is what it will look like then:
I decided to cut the two outer intercooler grill clips for aesthetic reasons.
Up close. I may trim this just to look better but not really necessary.
And finally back on the street!
As for performance my AP was recently stolen so I can't compare charge air temps. I hoping to next week. I can definitely feel more power up top with now cooler charges. It also handles multiple pulls way better! So back to flipping the IC. He maybe changing the install to where the IC doesn't get flipped. The reason is mainly just to give a little more room on the couplers where they touch the lower cowl when it bolts up. Not really a problem just a little more room, plus then you could show the "M" if you wanted. I was talking to Chris about this bracket being offered as a kit possibly in the future with all the T bolt clamps, piper joiners, and properly cut to size silicone couplers. That would make it a complete bolt on kit with the bracket and nothing else for the end user to purchase or trim to fit. Hopefully he can make that happen. It would add to the price considerably as the silicone couplers are not cheap. Hopefully this wasn't to long winded and I'm sure that I'm missing something. I'm sure Chris can chime in where I missed. Please buy this if you are considering the J-Line. It will save you the headache of fabricating brackets. Plus this looks way cleaner. I will also add to this if I forgot something.
It installs very straight forward.
First remove your front bumper.
Then remove the small stock unit.
For size comparison the stock unit is much smaller.
Then you will have to remove (unbolt, no cutting) this piece. It is not used with the new intercooler. It is a mounting point for the stock unit.
Then fit the new CMbuildz bracket.
It mounts very easily utilizing the radiator support mount. The hole is also oblong to allow for side to side adjustment.
Then using the supplied bolts from Mishimoto with a little bit of blue thread lock, go ahead and mount up the intercooler. The intercooler is flipped with the "M" facing in. This may change in the future, more on this later.
(bad photo) Here's another
So now you should be looking like this.
Then your going to want to mock up your couplers and check where they need to be trimmed.
I used HPS 4" length couplers so they could be trimmed to fit. Here you can see that they were too long and interfered with the bumper mounting back up. You want to make sure that they aren't much past the crash bar.
After you have them trimmed up go ahead and put in your hose joiners and clamp everything nice and tight with quality T-bolt clamps. I used HPS as well.
At this point you can start mounting the bumper back up. Make sure to reconnect fog light connections before you put the headlights back in. This is what it will look like then:
I decided to cut the two outer intercooler grill clips for aesthetic reasons.
Up close. I may trim this just to look better but not really necessary.
And finally back on the street!
As for performance my AP was recently stolen so I can't compare charge air temps. I hoping to next week. I can definitely feel more power up top with now cooler charges. It also handles multiple pulls way better! So back to flipping the IC. He maybe changing the install to where the IC doesn't get flipped. The reason is mainly just to give a little more room on the couplers where they touch the lower cowl when it bolts up. Not really a problem just a little more room, plus then you could show the "M" if you wanted. I was talking to Chris about this bracket being offered as a kit possibly in the future with all the T bolt clamps, piper joiners, and properly cut to size silicone couplers. That would make it a complete bolt on kit with the bracket and nothing else for the end user to purchase or trim to fit. Hopefully he can make that happen. It would add to the price considerably as the silicone couplers are not cheap. Hopefully this wasn't to long winded and I'm sure that I'm missing something. I'm sure Chris can chime in where I missed. Please buy this if you are considering the J-Line. It will save you the headache of fabricating brackets. Plus this looks way cleaner. I will also add to this if I forgot something.
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