The Evolution of the Green Beast

[M-Sport fan]

I think I'm gonna make some tubular spherical bearing control arms. They will be adjustable for caster and camber.

Russ

^^^THIS would be a GODSEND!!!!! (And NO/ZERO/NADA chance of bind whatsoever, and possibly even lighter weight than factory!!)

 

[Sekred]

These do not induce bind in our front suspensions at all? (I am asking seriously, and for knowledge's sake, NOT in a derisive, or questioning your judgement way AT ALL, since I have NO experience whatsoever with this particular car's suspension as far as handling goes ).

I only ask because poly was a TOTAL in most of the suspension bushings on my last car (especially the front and rear lower control arms), for optimal turning left and right's sake, due to the bind they naturally have.
They were considered GREAT for the drag racers, but going backwards for the road race/a-x people.

How do Poly bushes bind?. A poly bush moves more like a bearing so to speak. The crush tube is clamped and the poly outer material rotates, that's why you need to use a lubricating grease. A rubber suspension bush twists or distorts out of shape causing the pivot point to move a small degree.

 

[Sourskittle]

I did spherical LCA bushings in my SRT4 and it was the best thing EVER. Noisey. But totally worth it. It was the only thing that TRUELY HELPED ALMOST all wheel hop issues.
I wanted the power flex ones. But I couldn't pay that for non-solid ones.

I'd kill for some press in solid bushings for the stock fist arms.

If SRT4's had them in 2005, no reason a fist couldn't have them in 2017 ( we couldn't get custom billet compressor wheels back then for less than $800 a piece ).

DHM, build them.... and they will come. An F-ton of people would buy them, and I'm one of them...


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[Sekred]

I am running the black series in the front. Can't say I have noticed a change in NVH. I am also using moded engine mounts and basically have zero wheel hop issues, literally smoke the tyres in 2nd gear on a cool day with the LSD. I would love to try spherical bearings and see if it helped to improve my torque steer issues mainly.

 

[Sourskittle]

I only get wheel hop at the drag strip. Never an issue on the street.


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[jeffreylyon]

I think I'm gonna make some tubular spherical bearing control arms. They will be adjustable for caster and camber.

Replaceable ball joins (adjustable might be nice, too), a little tab of radius-ed sheet metal as a heat shield and sign me up! I'm not sure how'd you adjust camber at the LCA without changing track, but I'm looking forward to giving you some of my money.

 

[Quisp]

Piston got hot enough to melt in the thickest part of the land but NO where else and then cause a crack along the thrust side of the skirt.

Or

Piston crack along the trust side and melted at the exact center of the crack where a piece of piston broke off and then started to melt. Hence why the melted area is black because it has carbon deposits. Not extreme temperature signs. Extreme temps will not leave carbon deposits on the melted surface.

Your right pistons can just melt a ring land but they don't do it in the thickest part. The melt in a weak or thin spot.

Also alum doesn't melt because the burn air fuel mix doesn't reach it max temp until it expands and travels. Hence why egt's are higher in the header/collector/runner than in at the exhaust valve or in the chamber

For a piston not melt the burned air fuel mix need to travel this when temps get hot enough to melt a piston it goes past the rings because it found a path to travel hence the "torch" affect.

Take a cutting torch for example it can not cut metal until it has a path to travel and exit.

These are simple things for someone with experience and education to understand.



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Russ isn't there a boundary layer of gases that are a heat barrier between combustion and the piston top ? Not infering it in this case just asking.

 

[DHM1]

Russ isn't there a boundary layer of gases that are a heat barrier between combustion and the piston top ? Not infering it in this case just asking.

Yes but that's a whole different ballgame. The heat and travel of combustion that I spoke about still applies the same way.

Russ


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[Crooked Letta]

I came here for porn and got a horror film (crippled pistons everywhere) instead! Where are the pics or videos of all the new shiny parts going in? Also what did you decide on in terms of your build Pete?

Oh and DHM +1 on the tubular control arms with spherical bushings

 

[Pete]

I came here for porn and got a horror film (crippled pistons everywhere) instead! Where are the pics or videos of all the new shiny parts going in? Also what did you decide on in terms of your build Pete?

Oh and DHM +1 on the tubular control arms with spherical bushings

Haha I love the description! Everyone was constantly asking me what failed, so I figured to put all that info out first. Don't worry there will be at least pictures of all the shiny parts going back in. Possibly a small video clip of Russ doing his work reassembling the engine.
As for the specs I got for the engine build I opted for DHM's Forged pistons, Forged Rods, ARP head studs, obviously all new gaskets, head and block machined down to increase compression from 10:1 to 11:1, rotational parts balanced, new injectors, water pump (while it is all apart), slight bore out for the new pistons, and all the cleaning and machining down of all the sharp edges to reduce hot spots.

 

[shouldbeasy]

I remember when I was 19, in college, & full of piss and vinegar

I didn't strut like a peacock when in reality I had no tail though.

Nice updates Pete, good to see some progress.

 

[Pete]

As a heads up all new videos/episodes will be up on Saturdays at 8am Pacific Standard Time. This week is a filler video of my trip to Niagara Falls. So I won't post it up on here. Feel free to check it out on my youtube channel TShirtDriving if you like. Next week we continue our Project Fiesta build by prepping the car for the engine swap by starting with swapping out bushings. I am currently working on a write up and a video DIY on how to swap the final drive from our transmissions. There has been a lot of discovery that I hope saves a lot of you time for those that choose to go this route.

 

[Brick]

[MENTION=1650]Pete[/MENTION] great updates pete, look forward to more! All your modifications have me droolin, congrats.

 

[Pete]

New video is out! Control arm bushing install.
[video=youtube_share;F0kLSCAFoXI]https://youtu.be/F0kLSCAFoXI[/video]

 

[Siestarider]

Great video Pete. Looking forward to your take on how these bushings feel on track (and street).

 

[Pete]

Great video Pete. Looking forward to your take on how these bushings feel on track (and street).

Thank you, I'll let everyone know my honest thoughts on how this stuff feels. Today I took advantage of the weather and installed the solid steering rack and sway bar bushings.

On another note, I have almost everything for the final drive swap. I have to go back to Ford Monday morning and reorder a bearing as one of the bearings I ordered was for a the other gear shaft I am not touching. At least it is only one piece away!

 

[TempeST]

So I am genuinely curious, why a lower final drive gearing?

I have always done all my race cars the exact opposite. if super charged i will go lower final drive. But turbo I ALWAYS go Higher final drive if I change it. it gives you more time in boost. just curious on your thoughts on this one. Especially since you have and will have an upgraded turbo with a wider power band.

 

[Siestarider]

The only gears I use on track are 3-5. The only track I could maybe make use of 2nd is out of hairpin at Sebring, but having tried it, I believe staying in 3rd with a lower final drive would be a better choice. Probably better overall lap times as well. Pete may have a similar situation to deal with at his favorite track.

 

[Pete]

So I am genuinely curious, why a lower final drive gearing?

I have always done all my race cars the exact opposite. if super charged i will go lower final drive. But turbo I ALWAYS go Higher final drive if I change it. it gives you more time in boost. just curious on your thoughts on this one. Especially since you have and will have an upgraded turbo with a wider power band.

As [MENTION=1391]Siestarider[/MENTION] mentioned at my favorite track streets of willow there is a section for either 2nd or 3rd gear. I would like to be in 3rd on it and it would help use all of the gear better on any track. First gear I could care less about since I don't do runs from a stop. But have the option to bring all the gears closer would make the car more fun in my opinion as the power band is wider and the revs are higher then stock. On a stock turbo I would shift at 6,000 and when on the x37 I would at 7,000 I am hoping with the x47 to be around 7400-7500 shifting.

 

[Pete]

So I am genuinely curious, why a lower final drive gearing?

I have always done all my race cars the exact opposite. if super charged i will go lower final drive. But turbo I ALWAYS go Higher final drive if I change it. it gives you more time in boost. just curious on your thoughts on this one. Especially since you have and will have an upgraded turbo with a wider power band.

As [MENTION=1391]Siestarider[/MENTION] mentioned at my favorite track streets of willow there is a section for either 2nd or 3rd gear. I would like to be in 3rd on it and it would help use all of the gear better on any track. First gear I could care less about since I don't do runs from a stop. But have the option to bring all the gears closer would make the car more fun in my opinion as the power band is wider and the revs are higher then stock. On a stock turbo I would shift at 6,000 and when on the x37 I would at 7,000 I am hoping with the x47 to be around 7400-7500 shifting.