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Blown Engine Resource Thread
- Thread starter DHM1
- Start date
Oil feed line for the turbo most likely. Its held on by one small 5/16th head screw in the upper passenger side of the engine. Not sure why that was removed (if that's the issue), but someone else had this issue and it ended uo costing a turbo. The dealer did end up warranty-ing it, even though another shop actually made the mistake while installing his downpipe.
Your engine is likely fine.
Just don't drive it without oil in it.
You have a mess to clean up and maybe a turbo to replace.
I suggest you try and get it warranty'd after cleaning it up and reinstalling the stock downpipe.
Other wise.... I can source you a turbo or upgrade your damaged one most likely. But understand I'm trying to help on that end, not sell you anything.
A new oem turbo at ford employee cost is around $900+ $250 core.
Your engine is likely fine.
Just don't drive it without oil in it.
You have a mess to clean up and maybe a turbo to replace.
I suggest you try and get it warranty'd after cleaning it up and reinstalling the stock downpipe.
Other wise.... I can source you a turbo or upgrade your damaged one most likely. But understand I'm trying to help on that end, not sell you anything.
A new oem turbo at ford employee cost is around $900+ $250 core.
Yep, I'm gonna say the same...oil feed line to the turbo. Seeing that you installed the 2JR downpipe and it does away with the support bracket... The oil feed line could have been installed incorrectly from factory and between you installing the downpipe and the little bit of extra movement from not having the support bracket could have loosened the line all of the way. It will spray out all over the place if it comes loose. Just a theory. Unlikely that anything else that you messed with with that install would cause that...
Unless your drain plug fell out or you broke the oil drain or inlet for the turbo, in either of those cases lots of oil everywhere, swapping a DP has nothing do do with what seems to be the issue.
If one of those issues and the dealer did not change the oil you might be SOL but the good news is you can find a complete engine for pretty cheap, I would not go there yet nor take any crap from the dealer, make them prove you caused it if so and unless you simply damaged something, etc, just not related to the engine failure.
Rick
If one of those issues and the dealer did not change the oil you might be SOL but the good news is you can find a complete engine for pretty cheap, I would not go there yet nor take any crap from the dealer, make them prove you caused it if so and unless you simply damaged something, etc, just not related to the engine failure.
Rick
If you have oil all over your engine bay then finding the source would have been your best bet to know. There's really no reason any oil lines or connections should have been disconnected to install a downpipe. The oil light will be set off by pressure (lack thereof), not by temperature.
You definitely seemed overzealous to get the car on the road and tested, and that's probably a small part of your problem. Especially with a downpipe, you should have let the car idle for a few minutes to help reestablish your fuel trims. Driving it at 75% throttle in the first ten minutes isn't going to have helped either because your oil is not up to temperature and flowing easily. Finally, you should have been watching your AFR, oil temp, and cylinder ignition corrections to ensure everything was operating safely.
The electrical oddities, minus the sync update, is weird and should have warranted you finding a solution prior to leaving.
My guess is that you damaged a turbo oil line at some point and will be buying a new turbo and line, given the location of the mess. If so then your engine is most likely fine. Best of luck.
As for the FoST stuff, a lot of misinformation and disclaim in here. All of the tuners have been affected, and there are plenty that occurred on the stock tune as well. Many people say that they were in low load when it happened, so a lot of them are most likely LSPI. As for the knock sensors, they are ridiculously sensitive which is why they have actual incidences of false-knock, unlike the FiST.
Even the OTS tunes show negative corrections, so there are really no safe bets. The thread does look rather brutal, but keep in mind the fact that they sell approximately 2:1 or more in comparison to the FiST and have been produced an additional year. There are probably at least 20k more FoST's on the road than FiST's. There's a significantly larger pool from which to have failures occur. They have higher temperatures and pressures to deal with than we do.
With that being said, the FiST does seem significantly less prone to having issues from my perspective. My FoST has been a complete pain to tune, and I'm one of those that doesn't have the oil-pudding issues. Obviously time will tell because at this relative point in time I don't think that they had had any issues either.
You definitely seemed overzealous to get the car on the road and tested, and that's probably a small part of your problem. Especially with a downpipe, you should have let the car idle for a few minutes to help reestablish your fuel trims. Driving it at 75% throttle in the first ten minutes isn't going to have helped either because your oil is not up to temperature and flowing easily. Finally, you should have been watching your AFR, oil temp, and cylinder ignition corrections to ensure everything was operating safely.
The electrical oddities, minus the sync update, is weird and should have warranted you finding a solution prior to leaving.
My guess is that you damaged a turbo oil line at some point and will be buying a new turbo and line, given the location of the mess. If so then your engine is most likely fine. Best of luck.
As for the FoST stuff, a lot of misinformation and disclaim in here. All of the tuners have been affected, and there are plenty that occurred on the stock tune as well. Many people say that they were in low load when it happened, so a lot of them are most likely LSPI. As for the knock sensors, they are ridiculously sensitive which is why they have actual incidences of false-knock, unlike the FiST.
Even the OTS tunes show negative corrections, so there are really no safe bets. The thread does look rather brutal, but keep in mind the fact that they sell approximately 2:1 or more in comparison to the FiST and have been produced an additional year. There are probably at least 20k more FoST's on the road than FiST's. There's a significantly larger pool from which to have failures occur. They have higher temperatures and pressures to deal with than we do.
With that being said, the FiST does seem significantly less prone to having issues from my perspective. My FoST has been a complete pain to tune, and I'm one of those that doesn't have the oil-pudding issues. Obviously time will tell because at this relative point in time I don't think that they had had any issues either.
I def agree with that. Oddly, I think on average, the fist has an older demographic buying them as well.
I tell the guys at work all the time.... If persona A works on 5 pieces of equipment day, and person B works on 5 pieces of equipment a month, chances are... Person A will have more equipment come back with reoccurring or different issues.
Kinda makes ya realize just how good cars like the corolla and civic are !!! They build a zillion of them, and how often do you hear about one or those cracking a piston in a new motor? Lol. Food for thought I guess. ( yes guys, I realize one makes 70hp and one makes 220whp, calm down).
I tell the guys at work all the time.... If persona A works on 5 pieces of equipment day, and person B works on 5 pieces of equipment a month, chances are... Person A will have more equipment come back with reoccurring or different issues.
Kinda makes ya realize just how good cars like the corolla and civic are !!! They build a zillion of them, and how often do you hear about one or those cracking a piston in a new motor? Lol. Food for thought I guess. ( yes guys, I realize one makes 70hp and one makes 220whp, calm down).
I think this is probably close to accurate. When originally introduced, the FoST was was MSRP + dealership markup. This led to not many being sold, but those that bought them were relatively smart and slightly more versed in the world. Dealership markup went away and that opened up the market to some lower incomes. Once they added incentives it drove down the prices to what is ultimately comparable to the FiST, and introduced even younger buyers.
In my opinion the majority of younger buyers will choose the FoST over the FiST strictly due to it being better on paper. I don't necessarily blame them, but now you've got a bunch of 'because racecar' owners wanting to stage 3 on their OEM FMIC. The overall situation just leads to a higher possibility of accidental engine damage, and leaves the FiST more open to the older demographic that wants a fun car but isn't interested in having the 'fastest' of the two.
And before anyone flips out on me over bringing in 'younger buyers' into the equation, most of us (myself included) can reasonably say that we made dumber decisions when younger-that's just life. Due to my involvement in the Focus community, I have followed the FoST and community since before it was actually released and there was a very clear degradation within the community that occurred as sales-price decreased. I'm actually very interested in watching the FoRS community evolve as well due to its estimated price-point.
Either way, from personal experience the FoST is more difficult to get right and the FiST is much 'easier' or 'solid', for lack of better words. My FiST was tuned by revision F despite me going stage 3 halfway through, while my FoST is on revision F due to being so finicky and having to remove parts. And we're not done on the FoST, I expect at least another one or two revisions at the very least.
I think that overall there will be significantly fewer FiST problems than FoST problems, even when we account for the difference in sales volume. Obviously only time will tell, but that's my uneducated guess based on my level of involvement and participation in the communities, and from owning both models.
In my opinion the majority of younger buyers will choose the FoST over the FiST strictly due to it being better on paper. I don't necessarily blame them, but now you've got a bunch of 'because racecar' owners wanting to stage 3 on their OEM FMIC. The overall situation just leads to a higher possibility of accidental engine damage, and leaves the FiST more open to the older demographic that wants a fun car but isn't interested in having the 'fastest' of the two.
And before anyone flips out on me over bringing in 'younger buyers' into the equation, most of us (myself included) can reasonably say that we made dumber decisions when younger-that's just life. Due to my involvement in the Focus community, I have followed the FoST and community since before it was actually released and there was a very clear degradation within the community that occurred as sales-price decreased. I'm actually very interested in watching the FoRS community evolve as well due to its estimated price-point.
Either way, from personal experience the FoST is more difficult to get right and the FiST is much 'easier' or 'solid', for lack of better words. My FiST was tuned by revision F despite me going stage 3 halfway through, while my FoST is on revision F due to being so finicky and having to remove parts. And we're not done on the FoST, I expect at least another one or two revisions at the very least.
I think that overall there will be significantly fewer FiST problems than FoST problems, even when we account for the difference in sales volume. Obviously only time will tell, but that's my uneducated guess based on my level of involvement and participation in the communities, and from owning both models.
This is 100% spot-on with everything I see online, and that includes Facebook groups, comments on my YouTube page, and forums. Younger kids buying based on hp numbers on paper versus people buying on a complete engineered package. The number of horribly modified Focus ST's is insane! They can barely afford the car and can't afford well designed products. Given the Focus ST's quirks about being modified plus the desire for owners to spend the least amount as possible for the biggest gains is a recipe for disaster. Fiesta ST owners, oddly enough, seem to be older, wiser, and look at the car as a total package. Therefore, they modify the cars thinking in terms of maintaining a well balanced package instead of just dyno numbers. The results are way fewer problems.
Well I just found out today that I have a blown head gasket. Started my car this morning to hear some awful noises in the engine. Then noticed low coolant and looked at it when I went into work. All I have is the accessport stage 1 tune with and injen intake. I don't drive hard regularly by any means. I avg 30mpg+ regularly. I have auto crossed 3 times but the last time I did that was November so it isn't caused by that.
Car and year:2014 Fiesta st
Mileage: Just under 18k miles
What failed: Head Gasket
Mod: accessport stage 1 OTS and injen intake
What circumstances did it fail: Not sure just found out this morning with the rough start
Signs prior to failure: Noticed white smoke the day before but didn't think I smelled coolant. Guess allergies made my nose fail me.
Warranty: I hope so. Taking off the intake tonight then removing the tune in hopes of getting it fixed for free.
Car and year:2014 Fiesta st
Mileage: Just under 18k miles
What failed: Head Gasket
Mod: accessport stage 1 OTS and injen intake
What circumstances did it fail: Not sure just found out this morning with the rough start
Signs prior to failure: Noticed white smoke the day before but didn't think I smelled coolant. Guess allergies made my nose fail me.
Warranty: I hope so. Taking off the intake tonight then removing the tune in hopes of getting it fixed for free.
Hey everyone. Thanks for the replies. Finally found out what happened. The nut that holds the hard oil line to the turbo came off. I just spoke with the service manager at the Ford dealership, who says they are assembling a list of parts needed to repair it. He says the turbo is "shot" and that the core lines need replaced at the same time.
I saw Ford's employee pricing is around $900, so I figure $1080 for me. Core lines...another $200-300? They have already charged me $330 for labor. All said and done, I'm probably looking at a $2000 repair bill. Any suggestions? When he calls me (he says within an hour or two) should I tell him I am looking at other options? Sourskittle does the Cyborgs, I could purchase a larger turbo, etc. What would you say and what would you do?
I can probably get out of all of this for the $330. No parts have been ordered yet, and I could have them toss the pieces in the trunk and I can have it towed home.
I saw Ford's employee pricing is around $900, so I figure $1080 for me. Core lines...another $200-300? They have already charged me $330 for labor. All said and done, I'm probably looking at a $2000 repair bill. Any suggestions? When he calls me (he says within an hour or two) should I tell him I am looking at other options? Sourskittle does the Cyborgs, I could purchase a larger turbo, etc. What would you say and what would you do?
I can probably get out of all of this for the $330. No parts have been ordered yet, and I could have them toss the pieces in the trunk and I can have it towed home.
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