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Blown Engine Resource Thread

iso100

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#21
How the hell are they detonating so much there's damage? Aren't the tunes supposed to detect, pull timing, etc?

Wonder if a custom tune can pull boost as well as timing or even send the car into limp as a preventive measure after x events of knock and pulled timing.

I have my Mishimoto intercooler arriving today and now I'm really nervous about going from Stage 1 to Stage 3. Hold me.
 


rodmoe

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#22
Fear not ISO send me that IC and I will hold it for you..
And in other news it seems not changing oil can blow up your motot too or at least the dealer say so cuz the guy didn't get his oil changed at their stealership.. I am following it and will update but here is a cross linky

No late dinners and no punches thrown that we know of at this time .. "Clarkson!!!"
 


rodmoe

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#24
At least one and bigger and better on the way but they make great lawn art.
 


airjor13

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#25
Fear not ISO send me that IC and I will hold it for you..
And in other news it seems not changing oil can blow up your motot too or at least the dealer say so cuz the guy didn't get his oil changed at their stealership.. I am following it and will update but here is a cross linky

No late dinners and no punches thrown that we know of at this time .. "Clarkson!!!"
I see your understated comment in regards to TG, what a shame.
 


Sourskittle

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#26
I asked Alex from Straified about what was "too much knock". What was exceptable to see. And what was likely "engine damaging". See said.... Get ready.... Are you ready??? He said....

"It depends".

Lmao. I may as well have shaken a magic 8 ball and went with that, lol.
 


iso100

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#27
Sigh.

I followed that Focus thread and saw that it seemed Panda tunes had the least numbers of issues. When I get protuned I'm considering going to them.

I might also get the final revision and then tell them to "dial it back 5%" for added piece of mind.
 


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#28
How the hell are they detonating so much there's damage? Aren't the tunes supposed to detect, pull timing, etc?
From how I'm understanding it, some of them are muting the knock sensors at certain points or "turning the volume down" on them because the knock sensors are hearing other noises and causing the computer to pull back timing. Horrible idea to do either of those.

Also, the stock cast pistons are far less resilient when it comes to detonation. Cast pistons can only handle a few seconds of detonation where as forged pistons give you a large window to correct. Also many cycles of high combustion temps will weaken the cast pistons. And EGT gauge is a very important tool in indicating that and it seems like the FoST guys could really benefit from having one. I went cast on my Saturn turbo like I did in a previous build, I had a major boost spike because I bought what I thought was a genuine Turbosmart Ultragate (turned out it was counterfeit), the injectors ran out of fuel to give, and this happened. It happens faster than you can lift and it's my fault for not having the overboost protection turned on (I forgot to enable it when I built the tune).

 


iso100

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#29
From how I'm understanding it, some of them are muting the knock sensors at certain points or "turning the volume down" on them because the knock sensors are hearing other noises and causing the computer to pull back timing. Horrible idea to do either of those.
Reaction:
[video=youtube;umDr0mPuyQc]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=umDr0mPuyQc[/video]

When I get tuned I will specifically tell them NOT to do that. If I get false knock then I need to figure that out. Don't freaking filter them out in an attempt for wringing more power out!
 


Etyrnus

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#30
Would you think that Cobb's OTS tunes would be more on the safe side, since they're not customized for an individual car? Honestly curious about this.
 


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#31
Depends on the car really. The Subie guys seem to have reliability issues with the OTS tunes and insist that getting a protune is the only way to go. Our ECU may be more forgiving than the Subie ECU at making adjustments. I guess they can adjust the correction factor in the Ford ECU as well, and how fast it recovers from a timing retard event.
 


Etyrnus

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#32
With watching cyl 1 correction, I've seen a positive adjust usually, up to +6, and only one incident of a negative correction of -1. Oct adjust is a consistent -1. Also, a thread has popped up on .org about a FiST blown at 29k, but not much info on it.
 


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#33
There's bound to be a failure here and there. You can't avoid it. Some are manufacturing defects and others are user related. No manufacturer will have a 0% failure rate.
 


Etyrnus

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#34
There's bound to be a failure here and there. You can't avoid it. Some are manufacturing defects and others are user related. No manufacturer will have a 0% failure rate.
This I know well. I've personally had friends that had to lemon law Hondas, and most people never question their quality. The same person went right back and bought a different model after the process was done. Given that with the FoST people were seeing failures as low as 8-10k miles, and there are many of us well beyond that already (18k myself), it's hopefully much less something the 1.6 has to worry about.
 


RAAMaudio

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#35
Since I mod my cars so much I do not even consider having a warranty on the drive train and most anything else I would rather fix myself so I am lucky these engines are cheap and relatively easy to find with barely any miles from junk yards, if blow one not a big deal, just put another one in.

For those that must use the warranty, just be reasonable in your mods and how you use it, pound on it all the time, expect issues to come up, as in most any car.
 


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#36
I just saw this in the FoST thread. Looks like what happened to my turbo Saturn pistons. I am seeing a lot of complaints with stock tunes even as I get further in the thread.

 


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#37
Hey everyone.

It's on a somber note that I am writing this. My FiST was badly injured on Saturday. I spent 8 hours installing the 2J-Racing Catless Downpipe, methodically labeling nearly every bolt, taking my time and learning as I went. After I finished, I noticed one small screw left over. I still assume this is a bracket mounting screw and has nothing to do with what happened, but I'll let you be the judge. Once I reassemble and reconnect everything, I jump into the driver's seat. I can see the map lights, the gauges lit up, everything looks normal. Since I had removed the battery and disconnected the ECU, whenever I reassembled the car, my AccessPort detected juice again and sprung to life. It couldn't have been on for more than an hour though, on the "looking for vehicle connection" gear-spinning screen. So I doubt that caused any issue, but who knows? I step on the brake & clutch pedals, press the Start/Stop button, and boom, everything turns off. Every single light. I freak a little, think I might have blown a fuse or something, but I stay calm and pop the hood. I check to ensure both battery terminal clamps are snug (they were) and I head back to the driver's seat. Lights are already on. I try to start it up, and boom, it cranks over and starts right up, like nothing ever happened. The infotainment system says something along the lines of "downloading an update" with a progress bar. It completes by the time I have reversed the car out of the driveway. I roll out and after not even 15 seconds, a message flashes on the screen that says "key out of car." It's in my pocket. I proceed, it goes away. I drive for about 8-10 minutes, using up to 75% of the throttle, and notice absolutely nothing wrong. No lag, no sputters, nothing out of the ordinary. I have the AP turned on and I'm cautiously watching all my temperature gauges. I did not heatwrap my downpipe, we can argue over it's merits another time, but I am seeing no spikes in temperatures anywhere.

I come to a stop light and I see a small amount of smoke coming up from the rear. I expected a little, my CBE smoked and stunk as it was burning in/carbonizing the inside of the tubing/whatever. I make a turn and step on it at the most, 50%. All of a sudden, a huge plume of white smoke bellows from behind my car. I think "shit, it's oil." As I think this, the red oil light appears on the dash. I am now stuck on a 55mph road with nowhere to turn off. I go easy on the throttle and semi-coast to the closest parking lot. In the time it takes me to reach a safe place, the "key out of car" message reappears briefly, then the door ajar light appears (wtf?!?). At this point, the smoke is pouring out from the edges of the hood. This is the point where the lump formed in my throat, I know it's bad. I then notice some clicking noises coming from the engine and an all-too-familiar sensation... I feel the serpentine belt slipping. I've driven friend's neglected cars and remember the distinct feeling. I make it off the road, kill the engine, pop the hood and face my fears. As I opened the hood, I am gassed. Tons of smoke rolls up and I see the damage. Oil thrown around the engine bay like a Jackson Pollock painting. It was mostly concentrated on the passenger firewall, suspension, wheel and tire. The engine cover had a little splash in the upper left corner, and some oil made it onto the belt and pulleys.

I didn't know what to think. I thought I might not have tightened the bolts between the DP and the turbo enough, I thought I may not have plugged a vacuum line in, I thought a sensor might not be connected, etc. I also think about a blown head gasket. It made sense to me at the time, seeing the catastrophic damage in front of me. In hindsight, I feel that steam would have also been present had it been a head gasket, but I don't know. What I do know is the oil level. I checked the dipstick, and it is virtually bone dry. Now before you suggest it might have been low before, it's unlikely. It had only been ~600 miles since my last change. When I did pull the dipstick out though, smoke escaped through the tunnel it previously occupied. I know oil can get hot, but I lack the knowledge on whether it would smoke on it's own. Something tells me not.

Either way, I call AAA, get towed to the Ford Dealership I bought it from, and make my way home. I dropped the car off with a brief description of the incident. They were closed yesterday due to Easter. I called today around 3pm and they still had not moved it from the parking lot. They were closing in an hour and a half but the service manager told me he would definitely get someone to take a look before they left, but I received no phone call. I'm anxiously awaiting the assessment, hoping for news that isn't horrid. In the meantime, I am forced to drive a Nissan Versa. [xx(] BBBLLLLEEUUUUGGGHHH [xx(]. The CVT transmission is just awful, and it just feels so devoid of life. But at least it'll help me appreciate my FiST when I get it back.

So what say you? Is it a blown head gasket? Is it a cracked/burst hard oil feed line to the turbo (my favorite scenario)(also somewhat likely as I was leaning my hands/arms all through the engine bay, trying to reach tough spots, it's entirely possible I may have bent/twisted/kinked one)? Something else I'm not thinking of?

My car is completely built by myself, and I've never had any issues prior to this. I am pretty handy and resourceful.
Cobb's OTS Stage 1 map
Cobb drop in panel filter
Stock airbox otherwise
Cobb CBE
Cobb RMM
Boomba BOV Spacer
Boomba Throttle Body Spacer & Intake Manifold Spacer
Boomba Sound Symposer Delete

That's about it performance wise. Sorry for the novel. Please help.
 


iso100

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#38
Somehow you lost enough oil for catastrophic damage due to lack of lubrication.

Were you monitoring the oil temperature? If so, what was it?
 


iso100

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#39
If they refuse to cover the engine, I saw new shortblocks for $1660 I think on Perrin's site.
 


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#40
Somehow you lost enough oil for catastrophic damage due to lack of lubrication.

Were you monitoring the oil temperature? If so, what was it?
Sadly while I was sitting at the end of my driveway, I switched my one gauge from oil temp to exhaust temp. I'm unaware of the temps the oil reached, but would there be any reason for it to have spiked that high? The DP by itself, meaning without me changing the tune to Stage 2 or Stage 3, couldn't have directly resulted in higher oil temps. Right? If it did, I imagine it would be fairly small.

If they refuse to cover the engine, I saw new shortblocks for $1660 I think on Perrin's site.
I don't expect the engine block cracked, do you?
 




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