Stealthy Frankenfiesta

[meFiSTo]

Totally you understand that on the MRX thread - it's not real friendly over there and has turned more into a beer guzzling contest at this point. I respect you man, you're doing your thing and doing it well. I've noticed the same shenanigans ever since I joined this forum and been on the tail end of some of that same type of talk. It's just insecurity. Glad you are happy in any case.

FWIW, to your current vs. delta observation, I did vDynos of all my tunes (Puma X47 installed 3 weeks ago) and saw about a 40hp difference between first and last tune revision. I did some pulls on slight decline on interstate on-ramp and that made the difference 60hp from the beginning. When the weather cools I'm getting a real dyno done to see where we are truly at.

How is traction in 2nd gear at WOT? Does the fact that the turbo spools a bit later eliminate traction issues? Or are you using traction control?

I have found the traction to be pretty good. I have noticed a little more torque steer effects when the throttle is stabbed for WOT. The power comes on like you'd expect from an up-sized turbo. There is a delay at low-RPM WOT, then the power comes on rather suddenly between 3500 and 4000 RPM. That's when the torque steer comes into play. Just holding wheel firmly keeps it from being an issue for me.

I have not driven much without ESC on the MRX setup, except for datalogging. I always turn it off at the track and basically leave it on when driving on the street. Traction control is always on. I have no real use for sport mode (although Ford suggests using it go get unstuck from snow/mud).

I have not tried to launch this car with this tune via quarter-mile style. I just don't drive like that, especially in low speed settings where I'd use second gear on the street. I have no real instance on the street where going hard to second gear is really getting me anything. Having said that, I have a Quaife LSD for what that's worth.

As for any "shenanigans," I've seen occasional rudeness or peculiarly aggressive behavior here (not that unusual for car forums, unfortunately) from time to time. Arguments usually have to do with conflicting technical performance POVs.

 

[M-Sport fan]

^^^How do you turn off the ESC (as much as we can with the console switch) while still leaving TC on??

Are you referring to a written into a tune map, 'aftermarket' TC, like Cobb's or Stratified's, or the factory TC?

 

[meFiSTo]

^^^How do you turn off the ESC (as much as we can with the console switch) while still leaving TC on??

Are you referring to a written into a tune map, 'aftermarket' TC, like Cobb's or Stratified's, or the factory TC?

Ah, well, I guess I disable ESC and TC both. Hah. Sport mode keeps TC on. I thought we could not disable TC, but apparently it is disabled with all off. So, my answer is that I don't.

I viewed this before and missed that point.

https://owner.ford.com/how-tos/vehi...-focus.html?year=2016&model=Fiesta&sync=sync3

 

[meFiSTo]

Finally got the new setup out to the track to shake out some cobwebs. Back to back days at Shelton then Portland. It's a very different beast. That difference is more noticeable to me at The Ridge. Throttle management feels a little trickier when wanting to go from steady throttle to WOT on corner exit. I especially noticed that in the exit from "The Ridge Complex" of turns onto the front straight. Where I used to be able to pretty much just mash the throttle as soon as I pointed at T16, now I have to do more of a high maintenance throttle until I'm actually mostly pointed straight down the front straight. It's a different feel. The other noticeable difference is that I'm more inclined to drop to second on corner exit from slow speed turns than before. Whereas with the stock turbo, 3rd was a possibility on those corners, it's not realistic now. More shifting.

At Portland, the match of the setup to the track was better for me. I have a lot more experience there as well, but the car just felt more mapped to the way the track works. My Portland visit was cut short due to a mechanical issue and I'd like to go back this season. We'll see.

A photo from Shelton provided by the organizer.

 

[meFiSTo]

And a video from my only full session with the TNiA guys in Portland. Thankfully, the mechnical was not as serious as it could have been (popped off linage ball). Traffic affected my ability to really get a feel for the car in some of the turns.

[video=youtube;cLik8mKSS5Q]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cLik8mKSS5Q[/video]

 

[meFiSTo]

This summer has turned out to be a summer of testing, tuning, and repairing glitches. Mostly at Portland, about 190 miles from home. I should have stuck closer to home. I'm not a fan of Pacific Raceways, but it's less than an hour away.

Ah well. After getting the car buttoned up again (in addition to the shift linkage glitch, there was a serious exhaust leak due to the bolts/studs securing the mountune cat and Borla exhaust onto the turbo ALL backing out to the point that a couple were missing), I took the car back to Portland ahead of Labor Day weekend.

Unfortunately, my boost hose clamp at the turbo outlet to the intercooler popped off and there was no way I was getting that back on without getting the plumbing loosened up. I tried. Under the car for about an hour or so. I gave up and the car goes back to the shop to see if maybe there is a better clamp. I've heard mixed things about t-bolt style clamps vs. worm screw clanmps like I got from mountune. Research needed.

Having said all that, Club Lotus NW events are my absolute favorite events and I enjoyed the day. I have not been to one since 2011. I was glad to get back. Organizer Mark Viskov suggests he's about done with running the events (after 22 consecutive years) and the club will no doubt end their days when he quits. It was great to see Mark and his crew. Just sad I only got a couple of sessions in.

I drove home the 190 miles with the hose popped off, staying out of boost as much as possible. Car drove well, all things considered.Hopefully doing that did not cause any more damage.

Some photos of the day:

Rare and beautiful Alpine Tiger with a Ford 289 small block.

Vintage Lotus prototype.

One of a few vintage Alfa sedans testing and tuning in front of the weekend racing.

Took a couple of flyby pan pics before I was distracted by my popped turbo hose. Looks like I can snap photos with the phone, although controlling shutter speed is an issue. Here's one of a Formula Ford about to be passed:

Photo of the popped off turbo hose from the passenger wheel well.

After struggling under the car with the thing for about an hour, that's all the purchase I could get for the hose (I did wind up loosening the other clamp, but it did not help).

I refer to this picture as "the field infirmary" (this was snapped after I'd been under the car for more than an hour, with car off jack stands and and the wheel back on). The vintage racer next to me discovered he had a crack in his frame. The driver and his crew chief were in the process of finding someone in the area (they were in from Bellingham) that could do some welding before the weekend races. We were both done for the day before noon.

Also captured a little video despite the short day.


These were my most entertaining laps from the first session (really my most entertaining laps this season). The first session was initially horrid. The 24 advanced and 8 intermediate drivers were grouped together because Mark had two big race car groups (closed and open wheel segmented...this was a big Formula Ford race weekend for the vintage guys). However, I came back into the hot pit lane half way through and caught an open space chasing down a Miata. That was fun. Although, if I'd really been pushing, I would have quickly overrun the Miata, I held off in the straights a little to chase the Miata through the turns. FUN!!!! That is what track days are all about.

[video=youtube;8dLvAgdlJ4Q]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8dLvAgdlJ4Q[/video]


This clip has what wound up being my fastest lap. Again, I was held up here by a couple of cars. I can tell that I easily have a few seconds to trim off here with little effort. Braking later and holding more speed in a couple of specific spots will do the trick. I figure between 1:35 and 1:37 is realistically about as fast I'll want to get to, especially on street rubber. Time is not critical, just having fun, which this setup most definitely delivers--as long as it holds together.

[video=youtube;yT1xxzoETtk]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yT1xxzoETtk[/video]


And, finally, a little flyby of the Formula Fords:

[video=youtube;U8NeIKLOQGc]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U8NeIKLOQGc[/video]

 

[M-Sport fan]

^^^NICE!!

I wonder if those were real/original Minilites on the Tiger (or Panasports?)?

Was that cracked frame sports racer next to you in the 'infirmary', a Shadow (it looks like one)?
NO; original Elans, Lotus-Cortinas, or RWD Escorts there??

 

[meFiSTo]

^^^NICE!!

I wonder if those were real/original Minilites on the Tiger (or Panasports?)?

Was that cracked frame sports racer next to you in the 'infirmary', a Shadow (it looks like one)?
NO; original Elans, Lotus-Cortinas, or RWD Escorts there??

There were examples of most of those. A white Europa was pitted on my other side. A cherry Cortina lapped in my group. This was the big PNW all-British field meet weekend as well. Just a ton of cars, plus the vintage racing. Really my favorite day at the track. I'll miss it when Mark shuts it down.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[meFiSTo]

After another not-cheap visit to my local performance prep shop, my car is back.

It's possible that the car will go for another run at a "local" track. We'll see. After the elbow hose connecting the turbo outlet to the mountune-provided, MRX-package charge pipe popped off at Portland Labor-Day weekend, we swapped the mountune hose with new longer one trimmed down to about 1.5 inches of additional hose on the turbo side and about 1 inch more on the charge pipe side. We also swapped out 3 of the worm screw clamps with t-bolt clamps. Fits perfect now. The clamp attaching the pipe to the intercooler remains a worm screw clamp. It might get swapped next year. Would like to get out one more time to see how it all works now. Power delivery seems very stout after sealing up the exhaust leaks from before and now with the turbo out hose mods. Keeping fingers crossed.

 

[meFiSTo]

MRX thoughts after a season of test and tune

The MRX setup went on the car in May 2017. At the track, this season saw two "minor" mechanical glitches that ended a couple of track days and cost me a little bit to get sorted out.

BUT: I think everything is stout now. New t-bolt turbo clamps and a new (1.5 inch longer) turbo-to-hot pipe hose. Things we'll be keeping an eye on are virtually all the securement bolts from the motor mounts to the exhaust flanges, all the suspension bolts, if it shakes and is involved with some aspect of making the car actually move: NUT AND BOLT before every event. Used to be I could get Cantrell to essentially do one thorough nut and bolt at the beginning of the season and then light spot checks. Hmmm. We'll see how things stay together this season.

After drlving mostly around town in moderatly hilly area, I've come to the opinion that the MRX slot 1 tune is better for everyday driving. It has plenty of scoot when mashed for in-town acceleration, and then in the driving range of 2200 to say 3500, the slot 1 setup (WG spring only, no added pressure) is much less finicky under hard throttle. That makes sense, of course, since the torque steer effects result from the big boost coming in. And there is torque steer.

All in all, I'm very happy with this setup. I'll get a chance to wring the slot 2 setup out a little hopefully this year a few times. I might do what is called a "Power Lunch" with the Proformance folks at Pacific Raceways. I do not love PR, but it's close and getting in a couple 20 minute sessions will help see how the car sits now. I'll probably take the RS out as well later in the summer, although I might just drive it down to Portland (the RS is much more stock)

 

[meFiSTo]

Car is stuck in the garage for a bit.

I got a contract job at the beginning of March and have been heads down trying to get my part of it done since. Sadly, I had to cancel a trip to NYC to visit my daughter and a visit to Utah for an RS Adrenaline Academy track day. But, it's been entertaining in it's own way.

But I've got some unfortunate news (although far less of a problem than it might have been). The garage in which my Fiesta resides has (had) a manually operated door. It is (was) about 30 years old. I've thought about getting some maintenance done on it or adding one of the (comparatively) recent "jack strap" style auto openers. And now we will add one, along with a three new doors.

The other day I was backing out of that garage, and the door decided to release, submit to gravity, and just drop full steam as the car emerged and as I put some gas on. As a the car has a manual shifter, you have to goose the gas just a tip to get the car to fight intertia. As the car just started to exit the opening, I hear a roar, then wham! I hit the door as it's coming down (foot on gas), go to brakes, pull back in. The garage door was wedged into the opening and the bottom section split, but attached. I tried to give the door a kick, which set off our house alarm (I forgot about the glass-break detector in the garage that apparently also monitors for loud sounds in general). I turn the alarm off and call the monitoring service. Then back out to the car and garage. After about an hour of carefully removing all the attaching hardware for the bottom section and VERY carefully disconnecting the tensioning cable, I grabbed my neighbor (who was thankfully home), and we gingerly separated the bottom section, coaxed the garage out of its seriously wedge situation, reassembled the bottom to the other section as best as we could, and secured the door. I was insanely glad just to get that to happen and SOOO thankful that my neighbor was home. Definitely a two-person job

My car is not exiting the garage until the new door(s) are in place. Sadly, the door was very much a custom thing assembled 30 years ago when the house was built. Getting two replacement sections built to match would have been prohibitively expensive. And, realistically, getting one door that did not match the other doors for this house would have been bizarre. So: Three new doors and mounting hardware coming in the next month or so. Until then, car has the trickle charger on it. And a jack strap opener for the Fiesta's door.

Some pictures.


Wedged.

That is not going to get fixed.

Amazingly, this is really the only substantive damage to the car. That wing is stout. I believe one of the wood cross members bounced off the trailing edge of the spoiler as the rear of my car struck the door going out. The door did not come down on my car as much as the car struck the door as it was in the mid-air, coming down full speed (when it lets loose an unimpeded door comes down fast...gravity is powerful). There are a couple of white marks on the trunk lid, but they will (seriously) buff right out. The high brake lamp still works fine, although I've ordered a replacement lens from Tasca.

 

[shouldbeasy]

Oh dang it! Worst part is not driving the car for a while eh?

 

[meFiSTo]

Oh dang it! Worst part is not driving the car for a while eh?

At the rate we're going at it, it could be a couple of months.

 

[OrangeFiST]

I got a contract job at the beginning of March and have been heads down trying to get my part of it done since. Sadly, I had to cancel a trip to NYC to visit my daughter and a visit to Utah for an RS Adrenaline Academy track day. But, it's been entertaining in it's own way.

But I've got some unfortunate news (although far less of a problem than it might have been). The garage in which my Fiesta resides has (had) a manually operated door. It is (was) about 30 years old. I've thought about getting some maintenance done on it or adding one of the (comparatively) recent "jack strap" style auto openers. And now we will add one, along with a three new doors.

The other day I was backing out of that garage, and the door decided to release, submit to gravity, and just drop full steam as the car emerged and as I put some gas on. As a the car has a manual shifter, you have to goose the gas just a tip to get the car to fight intertia. As the car just started to exit the opening, I hear a roar, then wham! I hit the door as it's coming down (foot on gas), go to brakes, pull back in. The garage door was wedged into the opening and the bottom section split, but attached. I tried to give the door a kick, which set off our house alarm (I forgot about the glass-break detector in the garage that apparently also monitors for loud sounds in general). I turn the alarm off and call the monitoring service. Then back out to the car and garage. After about an hour of carefully removing all the attaching hardware for the bottom section and VERY carefully disconnecting the tensioning cable, I grabbed my neighbor (who was thankfully home), and we gingerly separated the bottom section, coaxed the garage out of its seriously wedge situation, reassembled the bottom to the other section as best as we could, and secured the door. I was insanely glad just to get that to happen and SOOO thankful that my neighbor was home. Definitely a two-person job

My car is not exiting the garage until the new door(s) are in place. Sadly, the door was very much a custom thing assembled 30 years ago when the house was built. Getting two replacement sections built to match would have been prohibitively expensive. And, realistically, getting one door that did not match the other doors for this house would have been bizarre. So: Three new doors and mounting hardware coming in the next month or so. Until then, car has the trickle charger on it. And a jack strap opener for the Fiesta's door.

Some pictures.


Wedged.

That is not going to get fixed.

Amazingly, this is really the only substantive damage to the car. That wing is stout. I believe one of the wood cross members bounced off the trailing edge of the spoiler as the rear of my car struck the door going out. The door did not come down on my car as much as the car struck the door as it was in the mid-air, coming down full speed (when it lets loose an unimpeded door comes down fast...gravity is powerful). There are a couple of white marks on the trunk lid, but they will (seriously) buff right out. The high brake lamp still works fine, although I've ordered a replacement lens from Tasca.

Dang, that sure is a beautiful door though. It looks very high end. Are you replacing the doors with the same style or just the building grade? If it were mine (but it aint), I’d remove that section and replace that part of the frame, through some wood glue on the panels and mesh them back together like puzzle pieces. All you’d need to do is replace the rails, springs, and all that stuff. I have a great carpenter but we’re in California

Then again, it ain’t my door so sorry if I said anything you didn’t already consider.

 

[meFiSTo]

Dang, that sure is a beautiful door though. It looks very high end. Are you replacing the doors with the same style or just the building grade? If it were mine (but it aint), I’d remove that section and replace that part of the frame, through some wood glue on the panels and mesh them back together like puzzle pieces. All you’d need to do is replace the rails, springs, and all that stuff. I have a great carpenter but we’re in California

Then again, it ain’t my door so sorry if I said anything you didn’t already consider.

I mentioned this to my wife. We had planned to get 3 metal doors. There are some decent options that match the house (relatively speaking). The original doors are pretty cool. Very unique for the neighborhood. Frankly, unique for any house I've seen. The problem is finding a carpenter that we would trust with this. It's not a simple project. The damage requires two panels minimum. Obviously all the rail hardware, etc. will need to be redone, the rollers, and the like, but one of the garage door guys we found could do that part. They are nice doors. We'll see. I just don't want to have that door sitting like that for a year. Knowing us, that's VERY possible if we go the custom rebuild route. Three new doors? Done in a month or so.

 

[SkirataST]

Who tuned your SVT?

 

[OrangeFiST]

I mentioned this to my wife. We had planned to get 3 metal doors. There are some decent options that match the house (relatively speaking). The original doors are pretty cool. Very unique for the neighborhood. Frankly, unique for any house I've seen. The problem is finding a carpenter that we would trust with this. It's not simple project. The damage requires two panels minimum. Obviously all the rail hardware, etc. will been to be redone, the rollers, and the like, but one of the garage door guys we found could do that part. They are nice doors. We'll see. I just don't want to have that door sitting like that for a year. Knowing us, that's VERY possible if we go the custom rebuild route. Three new doors? Done in a month or so.

Well, doors like that are generally seen on million dollar plus houses down here.

Devils advocate, but getting steel doors would be like getting Autozone parts for your FIST.

Now here’s another idea: just put in the cheapest possible steel door for the broken one while it’s being mended. Also, replace the springs and rails on the other 2 doors because they are likely to fail some time soon too. This is usually the case.

Garage door people want to sell you entire door sets and not just the railings. It’s a profit thing so it’s good you found someone who can do just the railings and other stuff.

 

[meFiSTo]

Who tuned your SVT?

My old Focus SVT had a Powerworks SC. I ran on the stock tune for a couple of seasons, but then worked with Randy Robles when he was at FSWerks. The issues was that the AF ratio was getting a little erratic. It would run a little lean from time to time, which is tricky for a car taken to the track. We worked on stabilizing that, then the car went to its new home.

 

[meFiSTo]

Well, doors like that are generally seen on million dollar plus houses down here.

Devils advocate, but getting steel doors would be like getting Autozone parts for your FIST.

Now here’s another idea: just put in the cheapest possible steel door for the broken one while it’s being mended. Also, replace the springs and rails on the other 2 doors because they are likely to fail some time soon too. This is usually the case.

Garage door people want to sell you entire door sets and not just the railings. It’s a profit thing so it’s good you found someone who can do just the railings and other stuff.

We are still investigating options. One thing we might do is get a comparatively cheap door installed as you suggest on whatever standard rail we can find, then take the old door away to get the custom work done. My main issue is that the door is going to have to come off and I do not want to leave the door unsecured. More research needed.

Oh, and yes, we'll get the other doors and rails "restored" as best as possible. Probably replace the OLD chain-drive opener (the other one failed and was replaced with a belt-drive unit years ago), and then a jack-strap style opener on the new door.

 

[meFiSTo]

I've decided to switch "roles" for my two Fords. The RS will now move to being my "alternative" daily driver and main track car (meaning it'll visit the track a few times a year). The Fiesta will become my everyday driver and backup track-day car. With the mechanical hiccups last year and with this car being off warranty (due to MRX, Quaife, Mishimoto radiator, etc.), I am wary of thrashing it. The hiccups were minor last season, but stopped my fun for those days and forced the car into the shop for adjustments. Kind of means the car will be noodling around town mostly running the "slot 1" tune, which is plenty for around town and less throttle touchy vs. the "slot 2" tune. I'm also more likely to sell the car in the next couple of years. Someone is bound to want it. I have the MRX, MR230, and stock tunes with both the stock cat and the mountune cat (installed) so there is all kinds of flexibility for a buyer. Anyway, circumstances change. The RS will remain much closer to stock.