Doesn't feel the same any more :/

[jtaylor2005]

Well I dont think the scuff caused it. Musth ave been a pothole :/ the scuff is only about an inch and a half long and about 3-4mm wide :S

 

[Drifter]

From Corky Bell's turbo book Maximum Boost, Re intercooler clamps. "If a system runs 20 psi through a 2-inch hose joint, it will have 63 pounds of force trying to pull the joint apart". So its the pressure multiplying affect that can cause issues.

Thanks so much for this. I tightened mine and did a run with TorquePro. My max boost before was 16.2 Psi, after tightening the clamps, and replacing the clamp on the cold side of the turbo (it was stripped) I now got a 24.3Psi max Boost. Flooring it the car now gives me nice chirp from the tires changing to 3rd.

Going to invest in decent bolt clamps, and chuck away these worm clamp crap.

 

[jtaylor2005]

wow thats a massive difference :O have u got a dyno run at all before? and then one you could do now? :O

 

[pelotonracer2]

The combination of tightening all my clamps AND going back to 91 octane tune has completely transformed my car... While dynos are nice, I decided to do some 50-70 mph acceleration runs (in 5th gear) using a G-Tech Pro. After tightening my clamps, I did 8 runs on my 93 octane, stage 1 tune, switched maps, drove for an hour (with lots of WOT and part throttle accelerations) and then did another 8 runs on the 91 octane map. The median average over 8 runs was 1.531 seconds QUICKER with the 91 map. No 93 map run was quicker than the worst 91 run. Before the map switch, I also observed the 93 map and watched the ecu pull a ton of timing during initial tip in (on cylinder #1) which explains the "dip" in my dyno runs. The 91 map does the same thing right after the map change, but as the ecu "learns" this goes away. I don't care what the dyno "says", my car is definitely more consistent, runs better part throttle and accelerates faster under load with the 91 map.

For what it's worth, I stuck with the 93 map for an entire month.

Torque steer is now rampant in 2nd and 3rd gears again. So much so that if I hit even the tiniest bump in the road while accelerating @ WOT, the steering wheel tries to yank out of my hands with the same force as my MS3. lol

 

[stuntdoogie]

Did you send a 93 log to Cobb?

 

[Sekred]

Thanks so much for this. I tightened mine and did a run with TorquePro. My max boost before was 16.2 Psi, after tightening the clamps, and replacing the clamp on the cold side of the turbo (it was stripped) I now got a 24.3Psi max Boost. Flooring it the car now gives me nice chirp from the tires changing to 3rd.

Going to invest in decent bolt clamps, and chuck away these worm clamp crap.

Wow, 24psi. It must be your fat exhaust giving you the overboost .

 

[Drifter]

Or maybe TorquePro is not that accurate?

 

[pelotonracer2]

Did you send a 93 log to Cobb?

No, I'm tired of running the 93 map. lol. The issue is intermittent (it does it every 2-3 WOT runs, sometimes more, sometimes less). It even does it with 94-95 octane gasoline so I know it's not a fuel issue. If you check out my dyno runs I did at Cobb, you can see this dip on my 91 map run. Yes it does this on the 91 map too, right after you switch the maps but goes away once you put a few miles on it.

 

[westcoaST]

I'm going to change my oil this weekend. While I'm down there, I plan on tightening and measuring diameters of all my hose clamps. and replacing them with T-Bolt Clamps. My supercharged mustang has T-Bolt clamps, and its only running 16 PSI. I cannot understand why Ford would put worm clamps on a 20+ psi system. FYI T-Bolt clamps are only 6 - $10.00 each, and the do not loosen, if you purchase the constant torque ones. These are available on most turbo parts stores and ebay. I got mine for my mustang at turbohoses.com.

 

[TuxedoST]

I was just at the dealership for a complimentary oil change, and I informed them of the boost piping clamp issue we all are having. Funnily enough, one of the salesmen there has an eecoboost truck. He said his truck felt down on power a bit lately so we went over to the floor model and I showed him where the clamps are on the truck. I also mentioned many many people on the forums with the same issue and brought it up with the service manager. Probably won't make a difference, but I did my part to try to help the car sounds better after the oil change. Maybe placebo, but I'll take It!

 

[jtaylor2005]

I posted these over on FiestaST.org, I hope these help.

Looking towards the front of the car, on the passenger side.

Now, from the picture above, you see that screw clamp second from the rear? It is initially very close to the plastic shield above it:

What you can really do is push it or wedge it out of the way. It's relatively flexible, and all it does is cover a belt. I wedged it out of the way by putting my socket on the screw clamp at an angle, then using that as a fulcrum to leverage the cover to the left. In fact if you look close you can see the outline of my socket wrench etched into the bottom of that cover hahahah.. Anyhow, I recommend loosening this clamp and rotating it so that it's easier to get a wrench on in the future, then tightening it up again.

Moving on, this one is on the passenger side of the intercooler:

Driver's side of the intercooler:

Close-up of the clamp closest to the intercooler - this one is a bitch to get to, in fact I just couldn't. However with a universal joint extension and a longer wrench it should be easy to get to:

And finally if you follow that same hose from the driver's side of the intercooler up the front of the engine, there are these two clamps. This is looking down on the engine from the top, standing on the passenger side:

I was able to get the driver's side (top) one by snaking my hand to the left and underneath that big L-shaped line in the foreground, but I couldn't get the bottom one as there was not enough clearance for the socket wrench. However you could easily get it with an open-ended 7mm wrench.

Just went out to try and do the front two intercooler ones and found that they were alright. However the ones that connect to that thin metal pipe with the weird bump bits in it in the first photo on the left. These were loose again even though I have already tightened them before :/

 

[HPruneau]

Went and tightened mine today, 3k KM's. Most could easily turn with socket, think I'll have to replace two clamps now though as I overtightened and seemed to 'stripped'.

There are so many tensions clamps on hoses, think any should be replaced with ratcheting?

 

[tjd_tdi]

I'm going to change my oil this weekend. While I'm down there, I plan on tightening and measuring diameters of all my hose clamps. and replacing them with T-Bolt Clamps. My supercharged mustang has T-Bolt clamps, and its only running 16 PSI. I cannot understand why Ford would put worm clamps on a 20+ psi system. FYI T-Bolt clamps are only 6 - $10.00 each, and the do not loosen, if you purchase the constant torque ones. These are available on most turbo parts stores and ebay. I got mine for my mustang at turbohoses.com.

Did you get measurements? Would save us all some time, if you could share.

 

[westcoaST]

Here you go. Much more information is in my build thread.

http://www.fiestastforum.com/forum/threads/2353-WestcoaST-Performance-blue-build

 

[tjd_tdi]

Here you go. Much more information is in my build thread.

http://www.fiestastforum.com/forum/threads/2353-WestcoaST-Performance-blue-build

You are a gentleman and a scholar.

 

[Bo Bo]

Wow! A dozen clamps at ~ $7 each...no wonder Ford uses those cheap worm clamps. I wonder what would happen if an owner took their FiST to the dealer every three months to get them all tightened under warranty?

 

[tjd_tdi]

Hose clamps are even a problem for mighty Mercedes F1: Lewis Hamilton's Singapore DNF caused by broken Mercedes clamp

 

[XuperXero]

Hose clamps are even a problem for mighty Mercedes F1: Lewis Hamilton's Singapore DNF caused by broken Mercedes clamp

LOL I saw that on the news today and thought the same thing