I know that some people are a little take back because the turbo is behind the motor. It has a few challenges, but honestly, I'd rather it be there than in front.
I want to start off by saying that I've done this a few times and my car has gotten used to being pulled apart and back together. Removing this turbocharger took me 55minutes including taking the pictures I've taken to make it easier for all of you.
Get your car off the ground a bit. Don't be foolish and use jack stands.
I like it about this high off the ground because it lets me get to things on the top as well as move around below.
Scary as it sounds... This is every tool I used !!
Flat head screw driver
Phillips head screw driver #2 or #1
Needle nose plyers
17mm deep well socket
10mm deep well 1/4 drive socket with 6inch extension
Small pry bar
Odd sized hose clamp socket from the turbo inlet to air intake
Deep well 13mm
And oddest of all... A T-30 torx socket or bit
Racheting wrench 5/16
5/16 1/4-drive deep well
Bonus tool... I recently used this to get the wind shield wipers off the stalks.
It was $5 at local parts place. Fingers tighten it.
Pull your headlights out. One big nice plug of the back of each and 2 pairs of flat head screw driver screws.
With the head lights out, you can almost see something like a motor
These 10mm sized bolts (2 pair) hold in the lower cowl. My upper cowl has been out for many months.
After a clamp off the turbo to the air intake, you can remove the entire air intake as one piece ( remove another clamp from the air box and assorted hoses ).
This is your spare tire. Its really hopeful to me to use as a stepping stone
This bolt is from the hardest part of the turbo remove. The heat shield bolts. There are like 5 of these ole sexy boys. The are 5/16 bolt heads and in my case, I only have one on because..... I hate them and the heat shield can not come off even with zero bolts in it, I leave the bottom left most bolt in, but that is it. The first time I took this off, I was very displeased. You do not need to remove the downpipe bolts ( 3 10mm bolts requiring a racheting wrench ), or the rmm assembly. Of course... If you'd like more room, the downpipe and RMM are easy to move for added space if you want it.
edit: this tool is likely a better option. But it was in my tool box at work, not at home when I made this
This is where the torx comes in. Its a single bolt and T-30 in size. No bigger than 3/8 drive socket, prefer 1/4 drive or short driver bit with a 1/4 wrench on it. Once that bolt is out, the oil return line has a brilliant O-ring that just comes right out the pan, but no worries, very little oil will come out.
The duel water lines. These make a mess. I use a deep well 17mm from below to get them. Put something to catch water under the car. I just used 3 old bath towels.
Take care not to lose the copper washers (crush) that are both in the front and back of the banjo fittngs. About 1/2 gal of water/coolant will be running down into your arm pit.
5/16 socket to remove the compressor outlet pile. Two clamps and pull off.
Use an extension and deep well 10mm socket to get to the v- band clamp that holds the turbo into the turbine housing. Remove the nut and don't lose it. Set the v-clamp a side ( you can not lose the bolt in it ).
10mm socket to remove the water line that holds the heat shield in your way.
5/16" bolt holds the oil feed hose to the head. Another awesome O-ring setup from ford ( THANK YOU !! ).
I use a small pry bar and just pop it straight out of the head, no fuss.
Remove 3 small vacuum hoses from the turbo inlet, waste gate, and compressor outlet and leave the boost control solenoid in the car.
To remove the wastegate rod, use the flat head and pop the "holder" off the top of the wastrgate rod nuts. Don't lose it, it will try to fly away. The rod bolt are 7/16 wrench (the only one that matters.
That should do it, you separate the turbo from the turbine and I snaked it out the top being very extremely careful with the turbine will ( PLEASE BE CAREFUL).
I left out a few small steps like some of the detail on cowl, intake tube and heat shield bolts. The heat shield bolts are the toughest the first time. A ratcheting 5/-6 is a must.
-------------------------------
At this point with the turbo out, you want to remove the manifold and turbine?
It requires a tool list about like this...
18" of 3/8 extensions
3/8 ratchet
1/2 deep well socket 3/8 drive
10mm ratcheting wrench
3 downpipe bolts ( you've done this before when you installed your downpipe ) they are 10mm bolts.
Use your long long extensions and 1/2 socket to go from below upto the rear manifold output bolts ( the ones you can't see from the top). Then go up top and take last bolt of 3 out and the turbine housing is free, make sure to grab the fire ring type gasket that will follow the turbine housing.
I wanted to also add in something that may make a difference in your weekend being ruined or this being a pretty easy swap....
The downpipe bolts and sometimes, the turbine to manifold nuts/studs like to eat themselves in the way out. Not so much stripping of the nut/bolt heads, but the actual threads of the nuts/bolts. So here is my best advise on the downpipe and 3 manifold/turbine nuts...
#1 spray with penetrating oil ( PB blaster etc, the best is acetone 50% and transmission fluid 50%).
#2 break the bolt/nut loose, but do not move more than 1/4 turn, 1/8 turn is best.
#3 spray with oil again.
#4 tighten that bolt/nut up again.
#5 move on to the next nut/bolt. Leave that sucker alone. MOVE ON. LEAVE IT !!
#6 do the same process to the other 2 nuts or bolts.
#7 back on the bolt/nut you started with, spray the nut/bolt AGAIN and back it out a full turn 360 degree turn. Spray it again and drive it back in. Spray it again and then fully remove it.
#8 do the same thing to the other 2 nuts/bolts.
** All this makes sure that the threads are lubed before they travel the way out. It also means you don't tweak the last nut/bolt by leaving it with ALL THE PRESSURE ON IT after removing the other 2 bolts. The same reason you don't remove head bolts 100% all at once. This is just a recommendation to try and make your life easier. It's not 100% fool proof, but... it's worth taking your time with to try and make this easier.
First video part#1 REMOVAL
http://youtu.be/ZJUrvWSAji4
http://youtu.be/jgxS7uLjE8M
Second video, Install video #1
http://youtu.be/XQkPBeVxf14
http://youtu.be/wS_rDyzWkHA
I want to start off by saying that I've done this a few times and my car has gotten used to being pulled apart and back together. Removing this turbocharger took me 55minutes including taking the pictures I've taken to make it easier for all of you.
Get your car off the ground a bit. Don't be foolish and use jack stands.
I like it about this high off the ground because it lets me get to things on the top as well as move around below.
Scary as it sounds... This is every tool I used !!
Flat head screw driver
Phillips head screw driver #2 or #1
Needle nose plyers
17mm deep well socket
10mm deep well 1/4 drive socket with 6inch extension
Small pry bar
Odd sized hose clamp socket from the turbo inlet to air intake
Deep well 13mm
And oddest of all... A T-30 torx socket or bit
Racheting wrench 5/16
5/16 1/4-drive deep well
Bonus tool... I recently used this to get the wind shield wipers off the stalks.
It was $5 at local parts place. Fingers tighten it.
Pull your headlights out. One big nice plug of the back of each and 2 pairs of flat head screw driver screws.
With the head lights out, you can almost see something like a motor
These 10mm sized bolts (2 pair) hold in the lower cowl. My upper cowl has been out for many months.
After a clamp off the turbo to the air intake, you can remove the entire air intake as one piece ( remove another clamp from the air box and assorted hoses ).
This is your spare tire. Its really hopeful to me to use as a stepping stone
This bolt is from the hardest part of the turbo remove. The heat shield bolts. There are like 5 of these ole sexy boys. The are 5/16 bolt heads and in my case, I only have one on because..... I hate them and the heat shield can not come off even with zero bolts in it, I leave the bottom left most bolt in, but that is it. The first time I took this off, I was very displeased. You do not need to remove the downpipe bolts ( 3 10mm bolts requiring a racheting wrench ), or the rmm assembly. Of course... If you'd like more room, the downpipe and RMM are easy to move for added space if you want it.
This is where the torx comes in. Its a single bolt and T-30 in size. No bigger than 3/8 drive socket, prefer 1/4 drive or short driver bit with a 1/4 wrench on it. Once that bolt is out, the oil return line has a brilliant O-ring that just comes right out the pan, but no worries, very little oil will come out.
The duel water lines. These make a mess. I use a deep well 17mm from below to get them. Put something to catch water under the car. I just used 3 old bath towels.
Take care not to lose the copper washers (crush) that are both in the front and back of the banjo fittngs. About 1/2 gal of water/coolant will be running down into your arm pit.
5/16 socket to remove the compressor outlet pile. Two clamps and pull off.
Use an extension and deep well 10mm socket to get to the v- band clamp that holds the turbo into the turbine housing. Remove the nut and don't lose it. Set the v-clamp a side ( you can not lose the bolt in it ).
10mm socket to remove the water line that holds the heat shield in your way.
5/16" bolt holds the oil feed hose to the head. Another awesome O-ring setup from ford ( THANK YOU !! ).
I use a small pry bar and just pop it straight out of the head, no fuss.
Remove 3 small vacuum hoses from the turbo inlet, waste gate, and compressor outlet and leave the boost control solenoid in the car.
To remove the wastegate rod, use the flat head and pop the "holder" off the top of the wastrgate rod nuts. Don't lose it, it will try to fly away. The rod bolt are 7/16 wrench (the only one that matters.
That should do it, you separate the turbo from the turbine and I snaked it out the top being very extremely careful with the turbine will ( PLEASE BE CAREFUL).
I left out a few small steps like some of the detail on cowl, intake tube and heat shield bolts. The heat shield bolts are the toughest the first time. A ratcheting 5/-6 is a must.
-------------------------------
At this point with the turbo out, you want to remove the manifold and turbine?
It requires a tool list about like this...
18" of 3/8 extensions
3/8 ratchet
1/2 deep well socket 3/8 drive
10mm ratcheting wrench
3 downpipe bolts ( you've done this before when you installed your downpipe ) they are 10mm bolts.
Use your long long extensions and 1/2 socket to go from below upto the rear manifold output bolts ( the ones you can't see from the top). Then go up top and take last bolt of 3 out and the turbine housing is free, make sure to grab the fire ring type gasket that will follow the turbine housing.
I wanted to also add in something that may make a difference in your weekend being ruined or this being a pretty easy swap....
The downpipe bolts and sometimes, the turbine to manifold nuts/studs like to eat themselves in the way out. Not so much stripping of the nut/bolt heads, but the actual threads of the nuts/bolts. So here is my best advise on the downpipe and 3 manifold/turbine nuts...
#1 spray with penetrating oil ( PB blaster etc, the best is acetone 50% and transmission fluid 50%).
#2 break the bolt/nut loose, but do not move more than 1/4 turn, 1/8 turn is best.
#3 spray with oil again.
#4 tighten that bolt/nut up again.
#5 move on to the next nut/bolt. Leave that sucker alone. MOVE ON. LEAVE IT !!
#6 do the same process to the other 2 nuts or bolts.
#7 back on the bolt/nut you started with, spray the nut/bolt AGAIN and back it out a full turn 360 degree turn. Spray it again and drive it back in. Spray it again and then fully remove it.
#8 do the same thing to the other 2 nuts/bolts.
** All this makes sure that the threads are lubed before they travel the way out. It also means you don't tweak the last nut/bolt by leaving it with ALL THE PRESSURE ON IT after removing the other 2 bolts. The same reason you don't remove head bolts 100% all at once. This is just a recommendation to try and make your life easier. It's not 100% fool proof, but... it's worth taking your time with to try and make this easier.
First video part#1 REMOVAL
http://youtu.be/ZJUrvWSAji4
http://youtu.be/jgxS7uLjE8M
Second video, Install video #1
http://youtu.be/XQkPBeVxf14
http://youtu.be/wS_rDyzWkHA
