First thing's first, this is my first write up and it probably won't be that great, so don't be too harsh on me 
Second, this is a review and demonstration of Whoosh Motorsports CEL Fix that [MENTION=5976]ron@whoosh[/MENTION] sells and what I went through. Feel free to chime in!
So I got everything installed today that I've been dieing to put in since monday....and man was it a pain. My mistake: Ordering a injen intake that was advertised to be for 2014-2016....when instead it's only for 2014-2015...stupid ebay. *kicks dirt* Bottom line: Order the right parts for your car! lol Double check ALL fitment from ANY site you order. (I know, duh) I also want to add that his fix is a plug and play with minor modification for the install.
My use was Not used as he intended. Mine was only nuts because of the product I bought wasn't correct fitment and furthered my problems.
(This will be fairly thorough of the process I went through so be prepared for a long one!)
On to business! So I received everything around monday, but just didn't have time to put everything together. Today, I decided to take off and tackle it since there wasn't much of anything to do at work. So I began taking off the stock intake and air box and knew I was going to have a handful with getting everything just right. The installation process of the CAI was simple, no need to note it since this is about Whoosh's product and not theirs.
Anyway, everything is high quality, from the hose to the check valve to the quick disconnects provided in the little kit he sends. Comes with a line w/UPR, and a block off the the coldside pipe. It was only $44. Inexpensive without a doubt compared to paying almost another $200 for another intake. I already spent $250...right now I just want to get things to work. Here's what it comes with:
You install the block off here:
I also had a previous failed attempt at splicing both vacuum lines together and it looked terrible lol:
So the whole key to all of this is the Check Valve. You have to have a good quality check valve and good connections or you will have a CEL eventually. Is this permanent? Who knows, but I can assure you, it most certainly works. Now I've checked around and know of two manufactures that make a fix for this but ONLY sell it with their intake systems and you can not order it by itself. I heard something about MAP sending some but I don't have their product so I didn't try to talk to them about anything. Anyways, I digress, the problem we have is this T-fitting that goes to a check valve on our factory intakes here:
Without the check valve, you get a evap code.
By this time I realize that I have a problem with the Injen intake:
The quick connector is directly above the T-fitting...you can't see from the picture but it's super close. So close infact that there's only enough room for 1/4" of line inbetween it and the UPR check valve.
Sadly, his quick connectors dont fit the injen, only the factory ones do, but his connectors fit everything else no problem at all. Again, my problem I caused on myself. The plastic clips are just a hair too small. Not to mention I had other fitment problems with the intake and another factory connector to where I had to modify the o-rings to a different size from the factory, just so it'll fit correctly. This led me to just use the block off.... I was all for splicing the two together previously. I was already tired of having to remove this, change that, and rinse and repeat. I probably test fitted and checked routing 9-10 different times. Nothing was fitting right or going the way I wanted. I kept on, and realized for now, the block off is the best solution for me, since it doesn't hurt anything, because of my positioning between the T-fitting and the intake connector and lack of extra stuff that I just didn't want to mess with since I didn't have all day.
In the end, I got it fixed up and modified or cut something with both vacuum lines. So if you don't want to do that, don't buy the full injen intake. They have something for the same price but its more like 6 inches of pipe attached to a filter. I also had to switch the connectors out so it would be straight for my purpose of routing. It would just kink no matter what so I grabbed some extra line and a vacuum connector with a up-size on one end and put it all together and made sure it was as free flowing as possible. I added about 10" (highlighted in yellow). Here's what that looked like:
All in all my headache, was still a headache from being ignorant. However, I am very pleased with Whoosh Motorsports and the product he offers. He clearly states that a proper UPR check valve is a necessity to prevent a CEL or DTC and I highly agree with him after looking into everything. For my situation, it was wonderful to know I wasn't stuck with a $250 brick, so a huge thanks to finding someone who did this. $44 bucks and its free shipping. If you have any issues with a mountune intake, cp-e, Map, mishimoto intake, and you DO NOT have their solutions from their companies or you have something that's compatible with the 2014-2015 and have a 2016 but worried about it being a 100% fitment, check this one out. It works, it's a great option. There are others out there, but this is about his and he was the first one to offer something to me like this without having to pay nearly $400. He has additional months of other testing to confirm, I tested it 100 miles today with no issues. I will update every once in a while if needed for confirmation of no CEL or DTC at all. His kit will work with alot of other intakes...just so happens my intake had a few flaws for my 2016 and I had to do some cutting but it worked out great in the end! I'm sure something could have or may have been done differently but hey, I did all this in a little over a hour for a quick fix so I could get home. If I missed a few things, I'm sure as this goes on, they will be filled in by others.
Also I want to add that I'm not bashing any companies in this post because of any issues, sometimes it takes a few trials and errors to get a product correct. This is simply a really long review of something that works for me and what you need to know about it.
As a side note, to properly remove the stock lines, get a heat gun. You wont need to cut them at all and after you heat the edges, they come off real easy. I only cut some for my specific purposes and I have the means of replacing them if needed back to OEM spec if needed. Thanks for reading!
Links:
https://whoosh-motorsports.myshopify.com/
https://whoosh-motorsports.myshopify.com/collections/s550-mustang/products/2016-fiesta-st-evap-purge-p144c-check-engine-light-fix
Second, this is a review and demonstration of Whoosh Motorsports CEL Fix that [MENTION=5976]ron@whoosh[/MENTION] sells and what I went through. Feel free to chime in!So I got everything installed today that I've been dieing to put in since monday....and man was it a pain. My mistake: Ordering a injen intake that was advertised to be for 2014-2016....when instead it's only for 2014-2015...stupid ebay. *kicks dirt* Bottom line: Order the right parts for your car! lol Double check ALL fitment from ANY site you order. (I know, duh) I also want to add that his fix is a plug and play with minor modification for the install.
My use was Not used as he intended. Mine was only nuts because of the product I bought wasn't correct fitment and furthered my problems.
(This will be fairly thorough of the process I went through so be prepared for a long one!)
On to business! So I received everything around monday, but just didn't have time to put everything together. Today, I decided to take off and tackle it since there wasn't much of anything to do at work. So I began taking off the stock intake and air box and knew I was going to have a handful with getting everything just right. The installation process of the CAI was simple, no need to note it since this is about Whoosh's product and not theirs.
Anyway, everything is high quality, from the hose to the check valve to the quick disconnects provided in the little kit he sends. Comes with a line w/UPR, and a block off the the coldside pipe. It was only $44. Inexpensive without a doubt compared to paying almost another $200 for another intake. I already spent $250...right now I just want to get things to work. Here's what it comes with:
You install the block off here:
I also had a previous failed attempt at splicing both vacuum lines together and it looked terrible lol:
So the whole key to all of this is the Check Valve. You have to have a good quality check valve and good connections or you will have a CEL eventually. Is this permanent? Who knows, but I can assure you, it most certainly works. Now I've checked around and know of two manufactures that make a fix for this but ONLY sell it with their intake systems and you can not order it by itself. I heard something about MAP sending some but I don't have their product so I didn't try to talk to them about anything. Anyways, I digress, the problem we have is this T-fitting that goes to a check valve on our factory intakes here:
Without the check valve, you get a evap code.
By this time I realize that I have a problem with the Injen intake:
The quick connector is directly above the T-fitting...you can't see from the picture but it's super close. So close infact that there's only enough room for 1/4" of line inbetween it and the UPR check valve.
Sadly, his quick connectors dont fit the injen, only the factory ones do, but his connectors fit everything else no problem at all. Again, my problem I caused on myself. The plastic clips are just a hair too small. Not to mention I had other fitment problems with the intake and another factory connector to where I had to modify the o-rings to a different size from the factory, just so it'll fit correctly. This led me to just use the block off.... I was all for splicing the two together previously. I was already tired of having to remove this, change that, and rinse and repeat. I probably test fitted and checked routing 9-10 different times. Nothing was fitting right or going the way I wanted. I kept on, and realized for now, the block off is the best solution for me, since it doesn't hurt anything, because of my positioning between the T-fitting and the intake connector and lack of extra stuff that I just didn't want to mess with since I didn't have all day.
In the end, I got it fixed up and modified or cut something with both vacuum lines. So if you don't want to do that, don't buy the full injen intake. They have something for the same price but its more like 6 inches of pipe attached to a filter. I also had to switch the connectors out so it would be straight for my purpose of routing. It would just kink no matter what so I grabbed some extra line and a vacuum connector with a up-size on one end and put it all together and made sure it was as free flowing as possible. I added about 10" (highlighted in yellow). Here's what that looked like:
All in all my headache, was still a headache from being ignorant. However, I am very pleased with Whoosh Motorsports and the product he offers. He clearly states that a proper UPR check valve is a necessity to prevent a CEL or DTC and I highly agree with him after looking into everything. For my situation, it was wonderful to know I wasn't stuck with a $250 brick, so a huge thanks to finding someone who did this. $44 bucks and its free shipping. If you have any issues with a mountune intake, cp-e, Map, mishimoto intake, and you DO NOT have their solutions from their companies or you have something that's compatible with the 2014-2015 and have a 2016 but worried about it being a 100% fitment, check this one out. It works, it's a great option. There are others out there, but this is about his and he was the first one to offer something to me like this without having to pay nearly $400. He has additional months of other testing to confirm, I tested it 100 miles today with no issues. I will update every once in a while if needed for confirmation of no CEL or DTC at all. His kit will work with alot of other intakes...just so happens my intake had a few flaws for my 2016 and I had to do some cutting but it worked out great in the end! I'm sure something could have or may have been done differently but hey, I did all this in a little over a hour for a quick fix so I could get home. If I missed a few things, I'm sure as this goes on, they will be filled in by others.
Also I want to add that I'm not bashing any companies in this post because of any issues, sometimes it takes a few trials and errors to get a product correct. This is simply a really long review of something that works for me and what you need to know about it.
As a side note, to properly remove the stock lines, get a heat gun. You wont need to cut them at all and after you heat the edges, they come off real easy. I only cut some for my specific purposes and I have the means of replacing them if needed back to OEM spec if needed. Thanks for reading!
Links:
https://whoosh-motorsports.myshopify.com/
https://whoosh-motorsports.myshopify.com/collections/s550-mustang/products/2016-fiesta-st-evap-purge-p144c-check-engine-light-fix
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